| Allergy Consumer Review Issue #68
Editor: Mercia Tapping, President,
Allergy Buyers Club
PLEASE NOTE that references to prices or specials within this archive reflect prices
and market conditions at the time of newsletter publication.
Prices may have changed since publication. |
Dear Everyone
Given
that so many people have been dealing with
flood cleanup after a slew of hurricanes,
and trying to prevent mold from growing
in their homes and offices, I have gathered
together some information that I think
will be of special interest to those subscribers
in disaster areas. Our office is receiving
calls daily from residents of the Southern
part of the USA asking what to do for hurricane
cleanup. We are happy to give you advice,
as we are very experienced in what equipment
you will need, and some of this equipment,
such as dehumidifiers, air
cleaners, steam
cleaners, and wet
and dry vacuums is available for disaster
relief reimbursement through FEMA grants.
If you are on of these people involved
in hurricane cleanup, I can only extend
our deepest sympathies and we will do whatever
we can do to help you.
On another note, as an allergy
sufferer with a compromised immune system,
I am somewhat concerned at the short supply
of flu vaccine. I have been fortunate in
recent years since I have been taking the
flu shot, to avoid catching other people’s
coughs, colds and flu, which is so easy
to catch in an office environment or from
one’s family. I expect many of you
are on the flu shot waiting list hoping
that you get a leftover shot after the
really high-risk group get theirs. I hate
sitting around feeling a bit helpless so
I am shoring up the air
purifiers at home and work so as to
minimize airborne germs, knowing full well
that the flu shot would be my first choice.
We have announced some really
nifty new products in this issue, so do
not miss reading about them in our new
product round up section.
Last
but not least, our new full length Fall/Winter
catalog has been published, so if you are
not on our mailing list, do not forget
to request
yours here. We are very proud of it
and have been getting compliments about
it already.
Keep Well,
Mercia |
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In This Issue
Shop Talk
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New
Products
1.
We have a new silk-covered,
simply luscious quilted coverlet for
your bed. With color choices like
plum and pink among others, this coverlet
makes a statement. I would take one home
in a heartbeat, but for my conviction
that my Siamese cats would immediately
throw up on this gorgeous bedding (Siamese
cats have weak stomachs) and then I would
be fit to be tied. If you do not have
pets who love to jump on your bed and
might get sick, then take a look at these!
From $130 for Throws and from $440 for
Silk-covered Coverlets.
2.
If your sinus headaches grip your face
like the aliens have got you, you may
be ready to join the band of hardy and
intrepid devotees of the Grossan
HydroPulse nasal irrigation system.
This system is painless and well documented
to be the best thing for sinus sufferers
since sliced bread. Our merchandising
manager has one and swears by it. If
you are the kind of person who does not
mind sticking their fingers into their
eyes for contacts, you will do just fine.
And if the sinus pain is bad enough,
you will get over your aversion to sticking
a water pik up your nose. $89.00
3. IQAir
Compact Plus Air Purifier. These
have now arrived and are exclusive
to AllergyBuyersClub.com. This is a
smaller sized air purifier than the
IQAIR HealthPro Plus because it has
two filters instead of three, but it
has almost the same cleaning range.
In this air purifier the legendary
IQAir Prefilter is combined with 2lbs
of carbon so it does give some odor
removal protection although not the
model we would recommend for heavy
odor removal and VOC problems. The
best news is that it costs only $30
more at $629.00 than the standard IQAir
Compact and far less than the $799.00
price of the best selling IQAir HealthPro
Plus. We think number of people will
really jump on this option, if allergen
removal is their primary concern. $629.00.
4. Air-O-Swiss
Humidifier. This is my favorite
new pick for the humidifier season.
This is the humidifier that can blow
hot or cold, perfect for those of you
who cannot make up your minds as to
which kind of humidifier is best for
you. It is almost silent - if I said "completely
silent", someone somewhere would
disagree so "almost" is near "entirely"!
What’s more a new patented ionic
silver stick makes for a cleaning schedule
which is much easier than others. I
predict that this humidifier will be
our new best seller this winter. $135.00.
5. Apollo
Travel Light. A breakthrough in
SAD light systems. This uses the new
Bluelight technology and
is even more effective than traditional
Sadlight products. When I first saw
this new light in our office, I pounced
on it and said "What’s that?".
When I was told all about it, it immediately
went on my holiday gift list - for
myself you understand! Wonderful to
take with you everywhere - home, office
and hotels and can stand in as a super
strength desk light. $249.95.
6. Whole
house water purification system by
Aquasana. I am a great proponent
of the advisability of using a whole
house system. In the end you save
on filter replacements, and you can
filter more applications than your
shower and drinking water. For instance,
dishes are cleaner with filtered
water, food tastes better cooked
in filtered water, and it is the
only way to get filtered water effectively
in your bath. $843.15.
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Dealing
With Mold in Your Home
By Mercia Tapping
The
health problems that occur as a result
of mold can be felt immediately (acute)
or can be longer term (chronic). The
immediate problems that are often associated
with exposure to high levels of mold
include the following:
- Mild or severe headaches
- Itching eyes and breathing
difficulties
- Difficulty in concentration.
If someone removes himself
or herself from the mold source in what
usually is known as a "sick building" these
symptoms usually disappear shortly thereafter.
There are also chronic
conditions, which are associated with
high levels of mold exposure. These are
often quite difficult to diagnose and
patients have often been accused of hypochondria.
These chronic conditions include:
- Asthma
- Allergic Rhinitis
- Pneumonia
What is disturbing is that
these conditions may not go away immediately
or ever even after the person is removed
from the mold source and indeed their
condition may even worsen. The mycotoxins
emitted by mold spores have been postulated
to be particularly toxic and research
is currently underway to pinpoint the
disease and mycotoxin link.
How do you know you might have mold?
A quick visual tour
of your house might give you some clues
- Are there any musty
smells especially in the basement?
- Is their any visible
mold growing in bathrooms, window sills,
books, shoes or walls?
- Are there water stains
on the ceiling or walls?
- Is there peeling paint?
This often occurs after intense condensation.
- Are the wood floors
warping?
Mold Allergies:
Decrease your Exposure to Mold
While conventional wisdom
recommends opening the windows to increase
ventilation this well may not be enough
to eliminate or prevent mold from growing.
Firstly, the outside air may well be
more humid and increase the indoor humidity.
Secondly, the outdoor air at certain
times of the year is laden with pollen
or tree molds.
-
We
recommend keeping the indoor humidity
at about 50%, which is below the threshold
where most molds are known to flourish. Monitor moisture levels with a hygrometer.
- Your first line of defense is to
correct all leaks sources - roof, gutter,
plumbing and drainage problems.
- It is critically important for you
to clean out your humidifier, air
conditioner and dehumidifier according
to manufacturer instructions. Some
humidifiers are more vulnerable to
producing the conditions for mold spore
production so choose carefully.
-
Use
a low
temperature dehumidifier in your
basement to keep mold at bay. Basements
are notorious as mold breeding grounds.
- Avoid using carpeting in your basement.
Sooner or later you will either have
a flood from the outside or a water
heater will break. Either way you will
end up having to throw that carpet
out.
- We believe that bare earth basement
floors are mold problems waiting to
happen. At the very least cover the
area with a heavy plastic vapor barrier.
Better yet use a dehumidifier and put
concrete on the floor.
- An exhaust fan in a crawl space
or basement during warm weather is
helpful. Dehumidification is even better
-
Keep
a clean house and use hepa
vacuums and steam
cleaners to achieve that goal.
- We have found that we are healthier
without houseplants, which tend to
have molds in the potting soil.
- Replace insulation materials, which
have become wet and choose allergen
friendly materials.
- Cooking pots should be covered so
as to contain steam, which can increase
humidity the basic conditions for mold.
- Use exhaust fans both in bathrooms
and kitchen and keep those fans running
for 10 to 15 minutes after cooking
or bathing.
- Wet laundry evaporates and puts moisture
into the air, so do not hang it to
dry inside.
- Always vent your clothes dryer to
the outside.
- Using an air conditioner in summer
definitely reduces the humidity in
your home but a dehumidifier is much
more energy efficient.
- It is important to heat all the
rooms in your house during winter to
prevent mold growth especially the
basement where condensation is likely
to form on cold walls and floors.
- Clean your refrigerator drip pan
and rubber sealing gaskets so that
mold does not grow where condensate
forms. Vapor steam cleaners are especially
helpful as a tool here.
- If you are painting your basement,
or where walls are cold, a mold inhibiting
paint is helpful.
- If you are building a new house
and have damp or green lumber some
way for the lumber to dry out is essential.
The most forward thinking builders
are now using a dehumidifier during
the construction process. A responsible
builder will also recommend you use
a dehumidifier after construction as
the concrete will "sweat" in
a new building.
- Triple or double thermo paned windows
help with preventing condensation which
gives rise to mold growth conditions.
A storm window works best when installed
on the inside.
- Mold in bathrooms can be kept at
bay with the diligent use of steam
cleaners, which kills mold growth.
- Buy mold resistant shower curtains
or clean the runners in the shower
doors, which is a hiding place for
mold.
- Use tile in your bathrooms and never
carpets. If you have bath mats wash
them in very hot water on a regular
basis.
While prevention is better
than cure, room hepa
air purifiers, air
sterilizers and high-efficiency
furnace filters will catch the remaining
mold spores.
- Central
vacuuming is the most healthful
way to vacuum since all the dirt
is exhausted out doors, which helps
with reducing the spread of indoor
pollutants. A high efficiency disposable
vacuum bag is the most effective
and healthful way to collect particulates.
For additional product
information on mold remediation products
go to our Mold
Solution Center and for more informational
articles go to our Mold
Center.
Top |
Fact
Sheet: Flood Cleanup - Avoiding Indoor
Air Quality Problems
The following article
is courtesy of the U.S. Environmental
Protection Agency - Indoor Air Publications.
Office of Radiation
and Indoor Air (6609J)
EPA Publication No. 402-F-93-005
Revised October 2003
Introduction
During
a flood cleanup, the indoor air
quality in your home or office
may appear to be the least of your
problems. However, failure to remove
contaminated materials and to reduce
moisture and humidity can present
serious long-term health risks.
Standing water and wet materials
are a breeding ground for microorganisms,
such as viruses, bacteria, and
mold. They can cause disease, trigger
allergic reactions, and continue
to damage materials long after
the flood.
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This fact sheet discusses
problems caused by microbial growth,
as well as other potential effects of
flooding, on long-term indoor air quality
and the steps you can take to lessen
these effects. Although the information
contained here emphasizes residential
flood cleanup, it is also applicable
to other types of buildings.
Prepare for Cleanup
Read Repairing Your Flooded
Home www.redcross.org/services/disaster/0,1082,0_570_,00.html prepared
by the Federal Emergency Management Agency
and the American Red Cross. The booklet
discusses flood safety issues and can
save your life. The booklet also contains
detailed information on proper methods
for cleaning up your home. You should
also consult the wealth of information
on the FEMA and American Red Cross sites
on the subject, which are listed below:
- FEMA web site on floods/flooding
- http://www.fema.gov/hazards/floods/
- American Lung Association's Fact
Sheet on Flood Clean-up - http://www.lungusa.org/air/flood_factsheet99.html
This EPA fact sheet provides
additional information not covered in
the original FEMA/American Red Cross
booklet on indoor air quality concerns
related to flooding (however, because
this fact sheet was prepared in 1993,
it is more than likely that FEMA and
the Red Cross and the American Lung Association
do have more up-to-date information and
resources available which you should
consult). Many of the methods used for
general cleanup, as detailed in the booklet,
are the same as those used to avoid problems
with indoor air quality. For brevity,
we have not provided detail on the general
methods used for cleanup here. This fact
sheet is intended to be used in conjunction
with the FEMA/American Red Cross booklet
and resources.
Avoid Problems
from Microbial Growth
a)
Remove Standing Water
Standing water is a breeding
ground for microorganisms, which can
become airborne and be inhaled. Where
floodwater contains sewage or decaying
animal carcasses, infectious disease
is of concern. Even when flooding is
due to rain water, the growth of microorganisms
can cause allergic reactions in sensitive
individuals. For these health reasons,
and to lessen structural damage, all
standing water should be removed as quickly
as possible.
b)
Dry Out Your Home
Excess moisture in the
home is an indoor air quality concern
for three reasons:
- Microorganisms brought into the
home during flooding may present a
health hazard. These organisms can
penetrate deep into soaked, porous
materials and later be released into
air or water. Coming in contact with
air or water that contains these organisms
can make you sick.
- High humidity and moist materials
provide ideal environments for the
excessive growth of microorganisms
that are always present in the home.
This may result in additional health
concerns such as allergic reactions.
- Long term increases in humidity
in the home can also foster the growth
of dust mites. Dust mites are a major
cause of allergic reactions and asthma.
- See Step 4, Dry Out Your Home, of
the American Red Cross/FEMA booklet,
Repairing Your Flooded Home , on steps
that should be taken to open up and
dry out ceilings, walls, and floors
in the home.
Be patient. The drying
out process could take several weeks,
and growth of microorganisms will continue
as long as humidity is high. If the house
is not dried out properly, a musty odor,
signifying growth of microorganisms,
can remain long after the flood.
c)
Remove Wet Materials
It can be difficult to
throw away items in a home, particularly
those with sentimental value. However,
keeping certain items that were soaked
by water may be unhealthy. Some materials
tend to absorb and keep water more than
others. In general, materials that are
wet and cannot be thoroughly cleaned
and dried within 24-48 hours should be
discarded, as they can remain a source
of microbial growth.
Information on the types
of water-damaged materials that should
be discarded are provided in Step 4,
Dry Out Your Home, of the American Red
Cross/FEMA booklet, Repairing Your Flooded
Home .
The booklet suggests that
you may be able to dry out and save certain
building materials (for example, wallboard,
fiberglass insulation, and wall-to-wall
carpeting that were soaked only with
clean rain water). You may, however,
want to consider removing and replacing
them to avoid indoor air quality problems.
Because they take a long time to dry,
they may be a source of microbial growth.
For information on mold prevention and
cleanup, visit www.epa.gov/iaq/molds or
call IAQINFO at 800-438-4318.
In addition, fiberboard,
fibrous insulation, and disposable filters
should be replaced, if they are present
in your heating and air conditioning
system and have contacted water. (If
a filter was designed to be cleaned with
water and was in contact with clean rain
water only, ensure that it is thoroughly
cleaned before reinstalling.)
Avoid Problems
from the Use of Cleaners and Disinfectants
The cleanup process involves
thorough washing and disinfecting of
the walls, floors, closets, shelves,
and contents of the house. In most cases,
common household cleaning products and
disinfectants are used for this task.
FEMA also suggests the use of disinfectants
and sanitizers on the duct work for the
heating and air conditioning system,
if it has been flooded.
Disinfectants and sanitizers
contain toxic substances. The ability
of chemicals in other household products
used for cleaning to cause health effects
varies greatly, from those with no known
health effect to those that are highly
toxic. Read and follow label instructions
carefully, and provide fresh air by opening
windows and doors. If it is safe for
you to use electricity and the home is
dry, use fans both during and after the
use of disinfecting, cleaning, and sanitizing
products.
Be careful about mixing
household cleaners and disinfectants
together. Check labels for cautions on
this. Mixing certain types of products
can produce toxic fumes and result in
injury and even death.
Avoid Carbon Monoxide
Poisoning
Carbon monoxide (CO) is
a colorless, odorless gas that can be
lethal at high levels. Carbon monoxide
levels can build up rapidly if certain
types of combustion devices (for example,
gasoline-powered generators, camp stoves
and lanterns, or charcoal-burning devices)
are used indoors. Do not use combustion
devices designed for outdoor use indoors.
Avoid Problems
from Airborne Asbestos and Lead Dust
Elevated concentrations
of airborne asbestos can occur if asbestos-containing
materials present in the home are disturbed.
Airborne asbestos can cause lung cancer
and mesothelioma, a cancer of the chest
and abdominal linings. If you know or
suspect that your home contains asbestos,
contact the EPA TSCA Assistance Information
Service at (202) 554-1404 for information
on steps you should take to avoid exposure.
Lead is a highly toxic
metal which produces a range of adverse
health effects, particularly in young
children. Disturbance or removal of materials
containing lead-based paint may result
in elevated concentration of lead dust
in the air. If you know or suspect that
your home contains lead-based paint,
contact the EPA lead hotline at 800 LEAD-FYI
for information on steps you should take
to avoid exposure.
Copies of this fact
sheet, and other information on indoor
air quality, are available from:
Indoor Air Quality Information
Clearinghouse (IAQ INFO)
P.O. Box 37133
Washington, DC 20013-7133
Phone: 800 438-4318 or (703) 356-4020
(fax) (703) 356-5386 or e-mail at: iaqinfo@aol.com
Links to Additional
Information
The Federal Emergency
Management Agency's Flood website - www.fema.gov/hazards/floods/ Publications
are available from:
FEMA
Publication Storage and Distribution
P.O. Box 2012
8241 Sandy Court, Suite A
Jessup, MD 20794-2012
Phone: 800-480-2520
Fax: 301-362-5335
American Lung Association's Fact Sheet on Flood Clean-up - www.lungusa.org/air/flood_factsheet99.html
Centers for Disease Control (CDC) - Key Facts About Hurricane Recovery
- www.bt.cdc.gov/hurricanes/index.asp
Top |
Check
Flood-Damaged Appliances
By Mary Yearns,
Iowa State Extension
Reproduced with Permission
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It's
hard to predict when heavy or excessive
rain may cause flooding in your
home. If your home sustains flood
damage, your electrical system
and electrical appliances need
to be thoroughly checked by experts,
says Mary Yearns, Iowa State University
Extension housing specialist. "Don't
plug any appliances into outlets
until the wiring has been inspected," Yearns
says. |
Appliances that have had
working parts submerged in water should
be serviced. Running equipment before
it is properly cleaned could seriously
damage it.
Meanwhile, you can clean
the hard surfaces of your appliances.
- Use a heavy-duty cleaner and hot
water to remove stains and silt deposits.
Follow up with a rinse solution of
two tablespoons chlorine bleach to
each quart of water.
- When removing gritty deposits, rinse
your cloth in water frequently to avoid
scratching enamel or metal surfaces.
- To remove odors from freezers and
refrigerators, wash the inside of the
cabinet and the plastic gasket that
seals the door with a heavy-duty cleaner
and water. Rinse with water and dry.
If the odor remains, wash with a solution
of one teaspoon baking soda to each
quart of warm water.
After they've been serviced,
washers and dryers that have been immersed
in floodwater will need to be sanitized.
To disinfect the washer, pour chlorine
bleach into the empty machine and complete
a 15-minute cycle at the hot setting.
Unplug the dryer and wipe all areas of
the drum and dryer door with a cloth
dipped in bleach and water solution.
Leave the dryer door open until all parts
are thoroughly dry. Then plug in and
resume normal use.
Yearns recommends
wearing rubber gloves for all clean-up
work.
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Sanitize
Dishes, Pans after Flood
By Mary Yearns,
Iowa State Extension
Reproduced with Permission
Dishes,
pots and pans that have been covered
by floodwater should be carefully inspected,
washed and disinfected before they are
used again, advises Mary Yearns, Iowa
State University Extension housing specialist.
First, inspect all items,
she says. Discard any items made of porous
material, such as wood, plastic or rubber.
Any dishes with deep cracks should be
thrown away as well. These items can't
be sanitized.
Wash the remaining items
in hot detergent solution, using a brush,
if necessary, to remove dirt. If handles
from frying pans and saucepans are removable,
clean them separately. Equipment that
can be taken apart should be cleaned
in pieces.
After sudsing and brushing,
rinse in clear hot water. Then immerse
in a chlorine solution to sanitize. Use
a solution of two tablespoons of liquid
household bleach to a gallon of water.
To sanitize metal items,
boil them in water for at least two minutes.
Let all items air-dry,
Yearns recommends. Do not dry them with
a dishtowel.
Kitchen items made of iron
probably will be rusted. Remove rust
by scouring with steel wool. After scouring
and sanitizing iron items, season them
before use to prevent food from sticking
to them. Lightly coat the cooking surfaces
with cooking oil and place them in an
oven at 250 degrees F for two to three
hours. The oil will seal the pores of
the metal so food will not stick easily.
If cupboards and
food preparation surfaces were in contact
with floodwater, clean and sanitize
them before storing the clean dishes,
pots and pans, Yearns says. Wash the
surfaces with hot detergent solution.
Then sanitize them using a solution
of two tablespoons of liquid household
bleach to a gallon of water.
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After
the Flood . . . Dry Things Out
By Mary Yearns, Iowa State
Extension
Reproduced with Permission
Clothing
and household textiles often become wet
and soiled if houses or basements are
flooded after a storm, said Mary Yearns,
Iowa State University Extension housing
specialist.
Yearns said many items
must be cared for immediately, but deciding
what to do first can be difficult.
The first step to cleaning
mud-soiled clothing is rinsing and soaking
in clear water to remove most of the
muddy residue. If the washer still works,
use the prerinse spin-out cycle. If the
washer also is flooded, wring out as
much excess moisture as possible.
"Don't leave wet clothes
piled in a heap," Yearns said. "The
moist, warm and dark conditions in the
center of the heap will be perfect conditions
for the growth of mildew."
Mildew is a growing organism
that can permanently damage most textile
fibers--especially natural fibers such
as cotton, linen, rayon and wool.
If outdoor lines are available
and it is sunny, clothes can be rinsed
and hung up outdoors to dry. Indoors,
air conditioning will assist drying,
but in its absence, dehumidifiers or
fans may help speed the drying process.
"Drying clothes quickly,
even with soil in them, will help prevent
growth of mildew," she said. "But
drying in the dryer will not only mess
up the dryer, it will also set the mud
and other stains, making them more difficult
to remove."
Try to wash clothes and
get them really clean using manageable-sized
laundering loads, as soon as possible,
Yearns said. Do light-colored items first
to help avoid permanent staining.
Drycleanable clothes, if
worth salvaging, should be sent to the
drycleaner. The chemicals in the cleaning
process and the high-temperature steam
pressing will sanitize the clothing.
In general, for washable
clothes, the same procedures that one
might use for dirty baby diapers in normal
circumstances should be followed with
all clothing after a flood, Yearns said.
After soaking clothes in
cold water to remove as much mud as possible,
wash them in hot water with a heavy-duty
detergent. Using about one-half cup of
water conditioner will boost the detergent's
cleaning power.
Hot water and bleach are
needed to reduce bacterial contamination
that may have occurred. Add an all-fabric
bleach when washing most colored clothing.
For colorfast or white clothes, add a
cup of liquid chlorine bleach to the
wash cycle, unless the water contains
a lot of iron. Iron in the water will
stain the clothes if chlorine bleach
is used, Yearns said. If iron is a problem,
Pinesol may be an appropriate sanitizer.
"High temperature
dryer drying also will help sanitize
clothing, assuming it is clean after
laundering," she said. "Another
less recognized sanitation strategy is
pressing with a hot iron. This may be
helpful for some cotton clothes and bed
linens."
Clothes that are
not completely dried are good candidates
for mildew--when conditions are damp
and warm. Sometimes, clothes can be
salvaged by putting them in the freezer
until there is time to deal with them
properly.
Top
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Flood-Soaked
Bedding Needs Sanitation
By Mary Yearns, Iowa State
Extension
Reproduced with Permission
Families
cannot always move furnishings such as
bedding out of danger of possible contamination
from germ-laden floodwaters, said Lois
Warme, Iowa State University Extension
art and design specialist.
Many experiences of Iowa
families over the years have shown that
getting the family to safety, plus collecting
some items of clothing and important
family documents, must come first. When
flood victims are worried about shutting
off electricity and protecting appliances
and major furnishings, they do not have
much time to move other items.
Cleaning flood-soaked bedding
is not quite the same as doing the regular
family wash or the semi-yearly cleaning
of blankets, Warme said. Laundry appliances
in a flood-soaked home generally are
not in working condition, or at least
they need attention and thorough cleaning
before laundering "as usual."
Bedding may be cleaned
in a commercial laundry, using the large
front-loading machine. Do not overload
a washer or dryer. Large or heavy loads
need space to move freely in the washer
and dryer.
Here are tips for reclaiming
flood-soaked bedding, all with emphasis
on thorough sanitation since floodwaters
are filthy and germ-laden.
For all bedding: Hang
out to air and dry thoroughly; then brush
to remove excess dirt and soil.
Blankets: Put
wool blankets through a dry-cleaning
process either at a commercial dry-cleaning
plant or at a coin- operated facility.
Shrinkage and thorough cleaning make
wool blankets difficult to wash. For
blankets that are washable (rayon, acrylic,
cotton), put them through two complete
washing cycles. Air-dry or use an automatic
dryer at proper temperature settings.
Sheets and pillow
cases: Put through two complete
washing cycles. Bleach using diluted
liquid chlorine bleach to help kill
germs. Follow your regular drying procedure.
Quilts and comforters: Wash
or dry-clean depending on fiber content
of the bedding. Usually, it's best to
wash cotton quilts.
Pillows: If
pillows are foam rubber or stuffed with
feathers or fiberfill, put them through
a regular washing cycle using sudsy lukewarm
water. Do not overload the machine. Two
pillows usually make a normal load.
Check the ticking on
the feather pillow to see if it is
tight. If it is, do not take the feathers
out of the pillow. If the ticking is
worn, transfer the feathers to a muslin
bag larger than the ticking. Sew up
the bag, wash feathers in it; then
dry, and put them back in the ticking.
Stop the washing process
mid-way and turn the pillows over by
hand. Plan to use a non-chlorine disinfectant
in the wash or rinse water for pillows
containing foam, down or feathers.
Use bleach on fiberfill pillows.
Air-dry foam rubber
pillows. There is danger of
fire if they are put in an automatic
dryer. Feather pillows may be dried
in an automatic dryer at a low temperature
setting or may be air-dried. Air-dried
pillows can be fluffed up by hand as
they are drying.
Do not wash kapok
and cotton-filled pillows. The
cotton filling will become lumpy
because water disintegrates kapok.
These pillows probably should not
be reclaimed.
Mattresses: Foam-rubber
and urethane-foam mattresses are mildew-proof
and odorless. The cover can be removed
and machine-washed (or you may want to
discard it and buy a new cover). The
foam mattress part can be thoroughly
washed with a garden hose. Squeeze a
detergent and water solution through
the foam if possible.
Reconditioning
of other types of mattresses is too
difficult to do at home. For a good
innerspring mattress, check with
a nearby commercial renovating company
to see if it is worth reclaiming.
Check cost of renovation against
replacement cost. As a general rule,
inexpensive mattresses are not worth
the expense of reclaiming and should
be discarded.
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Walls
Need Special Care After Flood
By Mary Yearns, Iowa State
Extension
Reproduced with Permission
Walls
need special care following contact with
floodwaters, said Lois Warme, Iowa State
University Extension art and design specialist.
Plastered walls and wallpaper need different
treatments than painted walls or concrete
block walls.
Walls may be difficult
to clean and dry. If insulated, the baseboards
and some siding may need to be removed
to ventilate wall cavities, Warme said.
In some cases, insulation
may also need to be removed, dried or
replaced. Allow at least two months before
applying paint because paint applied
to damp walls will later blister and
peel.
Plastered walls and wallpaper
can be cleaned without replacing the
paper, Warme said. Allow plaster to dry
thoroughly before washing it. Brush off
any loose surface dirt.
Use mild soap or a nonsudsing
commercial cleaner to wash a painted
wall. Warme suggests using one bucket
of cleaning solution, another bucket
containing clean water for rinsing, and
large sponges for cleaning and rinsing.
"Always start washing
a wall at the bottom and work up," she
said. "Starting at the top will
result in water running down over the
soiled area and streaking it, but water
running over a clean area can be wiped
off without damage."
Wash an easily reached
area without changing position, then
rinse the area immediately. Wash the
next area, overlapping the first one,
and proceed until the wall is finished.
Ceilings should be done last. Badly stained
walls require redecorating.
After walls are cleaned
and before wallpaper is replaced, paint
or spray walls with a quaternary disinfectant,
available from janitor or dairy supply
outlets. Add one ounce or two tablespoons
of the disinfectant to two gallons of
water. This will make the walls mildew
resistant. The same solution may be applied
to washable wallpapers.
Cleaning basements with
concrete walls and floors requires a
slightly different cleaning strategy,
Warme said.
First bail or pump out
water and remove mud from the floor,
then remove mud and surface film on ceiling,
walls and floor with a coarse brush or
long-handled broom. Spray or wet ceiling
and walls with lukewarm water, then scrub
with hot soapsuds. Repeat if necessary,
using clean soapy water. Rinse walls
and ceiling with a clear, lukewarm water
moistened brush.
To remove odors, use a
chlorine bleach solution, or use common
rock salt, or stock salt, Warme advises.
Rock salt is a good disinfectant. Use
1 cup of rock salt per gallon of water.
However, do not use rock salt on concrete
surfaces--it will ruin concrete, causing
it to chip, fragment or flake. You can
use rock salt on dry wall or plaster--but
be sure to rinse well afterward.
Sprinkle the salt
over the basement and, if the floor
is dry, spray or pour a small amount
of water over the salt. This mixture
of salt and water makes a strong brine
that should be allowed to stand on
the floor until dry. When dry, sweep
and wash the floor with soapy water.
This treatment will disinfect the basement
as well as remove odors.
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Cleaning
Flooded Wood Floors and Woodwork
By Mary Yearns,
Iowa State Extension
Reproduced with Permission
After
wood floors have been covered with wet
mud and dirt, they need to be cleaned,
flattened and possibly replaced, said
Lois Warme, Iowa State University Extension
art and design specialist.
"Cleaning is the first
step to fixing flood-damaged woodwork," Warme
said. Before the house dries out, scrub
all woodwork with a stiff, but nonabrasive
brush, plenty of water and a non-sudsing
detergent to remove mud and silt from
corners, cracks and crevices.
Floodwaters may accumulate
in partitions and exterior walls. Drain
these areas as quickly as possible so
insulation and structural members can
dry. Remove the baseboard and drill holes
between studs a few inches above the
floor. After the insulation and frames
have dried, replace the baseboard.
Use your regular cleaning
product for a final, thorough floor washing.
If refinishing is necessary, wait until
moisture has dried from wood framings,
between walls and floors, and backs of
trim. This may take several months. Consult
an experienced professional for refinishing,
or follow instructions on standard brands
of finishes and varnishes for household
use.
Wood floors will probably
be buckled, Warme said. Leave them alone
to dry. Dry wood as fast as possible
without aggravating shrinkage or deformation.
Open windows and doors wide enough to
give good ventilation on dry, non-humid
days. Maintain a temperature of 50 degrees
to 60 degrees Fahrenheit or higher in
the house.
After the house is dry,
there are several possibilities for renovating
the floors. Some of the buckled flooring
may be pounded into place with nails.
Planing or sanding may remove some humps.
Heavily planed floors may never be used
uncovered, but a smoothed old floor can
serve as a base for a resilient hard-surface
floor covering.
Mold and mildew are common
problems with wet wood. Badly infected
wood must be replaced, Warme said. Clean
mildewed floors, woodwork and other wooden
parts by scrubbing with a mild alkali,
such as washing soda or trisodium phosphate,
using four to six tablespoons for each
gallon of water. Rinse well with clear
water after scrubbing with alkali and
allow the wood to dry thoroughly. Then
apply a mildew-resistant finish.
To remove mildew stains
or mold from unpainted wood surfaces,
wash with warm soapy water. If stains
remain, add one-half tablespoon of trisodium
phosphate or four tablespoons of borax
to each gallon of warm soapy water. Dry
by rubbing with an absorbent cloth.
If mold has grown into
the wood under paint or varnish, the
finish must be removed. Scrub the wood
with an abrasive cleaner, then wash with
a solution containing four to six tablespoons
of trisodium phosphate and one cup of
household chlorine bleach for each gallon
of water. Sand the wood and bleach any
remaining spots. Several applications
of household bleach may be needed. Then
wash the surface with a weak ammonia
solution--two tablespoons of ammonia
per quart of water. Finally, rinse the
wood well with clear water. Let wood
dry thoroughly and apply a wood preservative
before repainting or refinishing.
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Check
Furniture for Flood Damage
By Mary Yearns, Iowa State
Extension
Reproduced with Permission
Families
whose homes are flooded may find damage
to their furniture even where it was
stored out of the water's reach. It's
wise to check the furniture now, said
Lois Warme, Iowa State University Extension
art and design specialist.
The dampness and excessive
moisture in buildings surrounded by water
may have led to some problems similar
to those where water actually reached
the furniture. The moisture may have
caused light or dark spots on wooden
furniture.
Many pieces of old wooden
furniture with natural finishes need
only to be cleaned to restore them. If
the finish is smooth--not alligatored--use
furniture cleanser-conditioner to clean
wood and restore natural grain and color.
Furniture cleanser-conditioner
can be made at home using the following "recipe." Fill
a glass container one-fourth full of
gum turpentine (not steam distilled)
and three-fourths full of commercially
prepared boiled linseed oil. (Do not
attempt to boil linseed oil at home.)
Cover tightly. This mixture can be stored
indefinitely.
The moisture may have caused
light or dark spots on the furniture.
To remove white spots, Warme said, rub
the surface with a cloth dampened with
spirits of camphor. In application, rub
with the grain of the wood. A liquid
made from laundry bleach--three tablespoons
of laundry bleach to one quart of water--will
bleach dark spots. Apply the liquid to
the dark spot, and let it remain for
15 minutes. Then rinse it off and repeat
the process if necessary. White toothpaste
can be used on dark spots if the stain
is not more than a few days old.
Furniture that was under
water or that absorbed lots of moisture
is likely to warp, Warme said. Veneered
furniture that is badly warped is a difficult
problem to handle at home. Consult your
furniture dealer about it.
Overstuffed furniture fabric
can be cleaned successfully at home,
said Warme. You can prepare the cleaning
solution by dissolving one cup of soap
flakes in five cups of hot water. Let
it cool until it is in a jellylike form,
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