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Keeping
Cool
by Mercia Tapping
My biggest
revelation this summer as I am monitoring temperature and
humidity in my house and testing out various appliances, has
been to notice that it is the humidity level that makes the
greatest difference to my comfort level. When the humidity
rises above 50% I start to get sweaty, crabby and uncomfortable
and when it is 44% or less, I can feel quite comfortable even
when the indoor temperature rises as high as 80 degrees. It
was also surprising to me that the humidity in my air-conditioned
house could get that high on the 2nd floor. This told me that
in my bedroom, it was dust mite breeding time.
After
consultation with our in-house staff, I decided that a SantaFe
RX whole house dehumidifier on the top floor of my house
was the ideal way to go. A Comfort-aire
low temp dehumidifier would have been an inexpensive second
choice. The reasons were that the Santa Fe has an enormous
capacity (up to 3000 sq feet) was very quiet by comparison,
had a built-in pump so I could drip the water out a window
using a hose, and I could even attach a hepa filter to it
as an option. I already knew from several years of selling
this machine that it is robust and got rave reviews from customers.
If I had
a limited income, I would now buy a dehumidifier over any
other appliance when it comes to the business of keeping cool.
http://www.allergybuyersclub.com/compare-dehumidifiers.html
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How
To Size Your Air Conditioning Needs by
David Barnaby, AllergyBuyersClub.com staff
Deciding
on what size air conditioner you need is not as simple as
it looks, but here are some of the factors that we suggest
our customers consider. Take for instance an air conditioning
unit rated by the manufacturer at 9000 BTUs, which based on
normal conditions will cool an area up to 300 square feet
with an average ceiling height of 8 feet. However, there are
additional factors that can affect how much cooling is necessary
to reduce the air temperature in the room to a satisfactory
level and maintain it there.
For instance,
you would need to add approximately 600 to 800 BTUs for each
person in the room. Also, if you have computers running, motors,
or lights on, it will add to the heat given off in a room
and thus increase your cooling demands. In addition, if the
room allows a great deal of sunlight to come in, this will
add to the amount of cooling you will need. We recommend turning
off unnecessary lights and leaving the shades down on windows
on hot days. Ceiling fans can also make for your feeling cooler,
although the temperature may remain the same.
Another
important thing to consider when cooling an area is the humidity.
For example, running your air conditioner on 65 degrees may
be necessary for you to feel cool if the humidity is high
in the room. However, if the humidity is controlled, let's
say between 40 and 50 percent, most people will find it too
cold if the air conditioner cools the room down to 72 degrees.
Many people now supplement their central air conditioning
with dehumidifiers because the air conditioning units are
either oversized for their area or they are the newer models
that are designed to dehumidify less so as to attain a better
EER energy rating. When an air conditioner dehumidifies the
air, heat is given off by the condensation process and more
BTUs are required to cool the air, therefore reducing the
product's energy rating. Without having separate dehumidification,
it is necessary to set the thermostat way down to 65 degrees
so it runs longer and dehumidifies the air. The problem is
it ends up being too cold not to mention the energy used.
Many people find they can set the thermostat on their central
air conditioning on 75 to 80 degrees and be comfortable as
long as the humidity is at a comfortable level.
See
our comparison chart on our complete selection of portable
air conditioners
http://www.allergybuyersclub.com/compare-air-conditioners.html
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Portable
Air Conditioners
by
Mercia Tapping
Yes, we sell
them, as they are perfect for allergy sufferers, since they do not
breed mold. However, they are not the answer to everyone's prayers
in the heat wave, but they do have their good points. For those
people who own their own homes with central air and heat there is
nothing better than central air conditioning. It is one of the things
that has helped me most control my own allergies. As soon as I moved
into a house with central air conditioning my allergies improved
a hundred fold. Nothing in my opinion does better than central air
conditioning.
However, like
many people with central air conditioning, it does not cool the
second floor so well and during the heat wave summer weeks, we always
need some extra spot cooling. So I end up begging my husband for
days (sometimes weeks) to install the window AC in our bedroom and
I cringe as the window frame gets butchered with drilling, screws
and duct tape. A portable air conditioner is an alternative. However,
there are some caveats.
In
our opinion, portable
air conditioners are not as effective yet as regular window
air conditioners. They should be used only in situations where regular
window air conditioners will not fit or where there is another compelling
reason to buy them. The portable air conditioners on our site are
the best performing and most reliable of the brands currently available.
However in our testing of comparably rated BTU window air conditioners
to portable ones, the window ones were the clear winners. Portable
air conditioners do best to spot cool hot areas in centrally air-conditioned
homes and only in moderately sized rooms with eight-foot ceilings.
We advise our
customers if they need to buy a portable air conditioner, to buy
the maximum BTU rated machine available, but alternatively to invest
in a first class dehumidifier which we have found is the driving
component to contribute to people's comfort level. Our best-rated
home dehumidifier is the Santa
Fe.
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| Portable
Air Conditioner TD 8K - Product Review
by Mercia Tapping
Introduction
Make
no mistake about it, portable air conditioners are no substitute
for central air conditioning, but like conventional window
air conditioners, they are good for spot cooling and they
dehumidify the air. In addition, they offer some interesting
advantages. We tried out one recently in the toughest of conditions;
A 90 degree plus week in Boston with the humidity level off
the charts. The
air conditioner was used in a 350 sq ft bedroom with 8-foot
ceilings. It was used in a room which was "centrally
air conditioned" but where the temperature was initially
81 degrees and humidity 51%.
Pluses
- Compared
to the annual "get down on ones knees and beg one's
husband" to install the heavy window air conditioner,
we installed the window duct kit with lightening speed,
simplicity and convenience. What's more, the usual desecration
of the window with endless duct tape, screws and holes just
magically disappeared. If for nothing else, in order to
avoid our usual annual air conditioning hassles, this unit
was worth it.
- We
estimated that the cooling ability of this machine was no
worse or better than most window air conditioners. It seemed
to pull the humidity down in the room about 5-7% and the
temperature 3 to 5%. The overall effect was certainly a
distinct improvement in comfort level.
- This
air conditioner is on castors so it can be stored quite
neatly in a closet and wheeled out when needed. What a relief!
- We
were amazed at how much water this air conditioner pulled
out of the air- about one gallon every 6 hours - which made
a huge difference to the comfort level in the room. The
plastic container for the water had a convenient handle
and was easy to empty.
- The
unit was no louder than a regular air conditioner, which
is to say, not quiet but at a sound level to be expected.
My husband hates noise, so he complained as per usual while
I thought it was fine, noise wise.
- Putting
the fan onto oscillating mode was one of the best features
of this machine. We could pull the unit out away from the
wall and receive a nice icy cold blast when desired.
- The
connecting venting hose for the duct kit was expandable
and contractible, which added to its neatness.
Minuses
- The
machine switches itself off when the jug is full of water.
It lasted 6 hours and we wished it had lasted for 8 hours.
- Read
the manual carefully and be sure to put it on "cool
mode". We skipped the manual and then wondered why
the air blowing out did not seem cool enough.
- Be
careful when reinserting the jug to catch the dehumidified
water extracted from the air. The arrow is scarcely visible
and for about 3 hours we dehumidified water all over the
floor. Our fault for being careless, but it was a mess.
- We
did test this machine out in the most adverse of conditions
but I personally was a bit disappointed that the temperature
could not be brought down further. You need to understand
that this is all a matter of personal comfort. My husband
said the unit was making him too chilly, while I felt it
was still too warm. We both agreed that the decrease in
humidity was even more important than temperature.
Summary
After
diligently critiquing this
air conditioner all week, we initially looked at each
other and decided this one was a keeper. We were now spoiled.
There was no way we wanted to lug that heavy window air conditioner
out of the closet and butcher the window again. The window
air conditioner could just languish in the closet for another
year! We did end up thinking that for convenience, we might
want to try using a hose to drip the water out the window
but never got that far.
However,
urged by our office to do comparative testing, we reluctantly
removed the portable AC unit and put in our conventional window
air conditioning unit with the same BTUs. The window unit
was much more effective under comparable conditions. It dehumidified
much faster and achieved the required "freezing room"
feel to our bedroom in less than two hours. I was able to
sleep with some covers over me for the first time in two weeks.
But we went through the usual hassles of imploring for a little
male muscle, lugging it out of the closet, and damaging the
window frame. Make your own choice.
The TD
8K Portable Air Conditioner is
available in our online store.
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Comfort-Aire
65 pint Low Temp Dehumidifier Updated Review
by
Bob Cobe, AllergyBuyersClub.com staff
As
part of our "real life" testing procedures that
Allergy Buyers Club conducts, I have been testing the Comfort-Aire
65 pint low temperature dehumidifier in my humid 1000
square foot basement.
Prior
to my testing this unit, I had been testing 2 smaller units
from other manufacturers that were each rated to do about
500 square feet each. Even with both of these smaller units
running at the same time, I had been unable to maintain the
humidity level below 57% even with both units running almost
continuously.
In fact
the lowest reading I had been able to reach, but not maintain,
had been 53%.
I then
set up the Comfort-Aire 65 pint low temp dehumidifier for
constant draining with the easy-to-use draining tube that
is included, put the fan speed on low, and turned the unit
on along with just one of the smaller units. Within 6 hours
the humidity had dropped to 43%. So I turned off the smaller
dehumidifier unit since it was clearly not needed, and just
left the Comfort-Aire running. The Comfort-Aire was set for
50% humidity and has been maintaining a 50% level on low fan
speed ever since. I have also tested the Comfort-Aire dehumidifier
with the setting at 45% and it seems to maintain that level
as well, but since I only need to keep the humidity at 50%
to prevent mold, I have reset it to run at 50% to save electricity.
The unit is relatively quiet and the fan and compressor both
shut off when the humidity level has been reached. It is the
best residential basement dehumidifier I have tested.
The Comfort-Aire
65 pint low temperature dehumidifier is
available in our online store.
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Water Damage And Mold
by
Thad Godish, Ph.D
Question
I live in
a home built in 1961 in Virginia. I recently discovered water damage
to our interior wall framing and plasterboard, from what I suspect
to be an old plumbing leak. I found it because, in an adjacent linen
closet to our downstairs shower, the skim coat on the plaster walls
was breaking off and we noticed that the lower portion of the wall
had been plastered and the baseboards had been replaced by the previous
owner. Also when I checked the plumbing access panel upstairs to
this area in our bedroom, I saw some wood and plaster wallboard
that has areas that appear to be discolored gray to black from water
and, on top of it, a white residue that feels soft like talcum powder
(rather than like sand).
We suspect
that the water damage occurred at least 10 years ago because the
previous owners had remodeled both bathrooms and the new areas look
fine. We are having a structural engineer come look at the area,
because there are some cracks on the upstairs walls near this area.
So what I am wondering is, aside from structural reinforcement/repairs
that may be needed, to address IAQ and allergy issues, how do I
decide what wood and plaster board needs to be removed versus left
alone versus maybe encapsulated by paint or some other treatment?
Is there a moisture level that I should be looking for with a moisture
meter? Is it effervescence or mold? I can't seem to find a moisture
inspector in my area - what type of professional do I look for to
help with this and what qualifications should they have?
This project
could involve significant plaster board removal and interior wall
reconstruction, and I want to know whether this is truly needed
or whether I can encapsulate the affected areas since the water
leak no longer exists.
-Alison,
Virginia
Answer
Such plumbing
leaks (which are often slow) are quite common. In fact, if most
homeowners were to look hard enough, they would likely find some
similar damage/mold infestation particularly in homes 10 years old
or older.
Based on what
you describe, it is suggestive that the plumbing leak which apparently
was remediated, continued after the remediation. The white residue
is likely to be gypsum. It may have effloresced from the wallboard
(by the action of water) or may have been generated in the remediation.
The gray discoloration
is likely due to mold such as Cladosporium, the blacker mold may
be Stachybotrys.
The area in
question needs to be carefully opened up for inspection before one
can make any remediation recommendations. The plumbing leak needs
to be found (if it is still continuing) and corrected. Wood materials
in many cases can be brushed, vacuumed and sealed. Gypsumboard should
be removed and replaced. Such remediation should be conducted by
an experienced remediation contractor to ensure that mold is not
dispersed into the living areas of your house.
I recommend
that you look in your yellow pages under Ecological and Environmental
Services. There are likely to be many IAQ/mold services consultants
listed. Unfortunately, most individuals who provide such services
are relatively new to it (less than 5 years of experience). Qualifications?
There are none. Just about any one can claim to be an expert and
at this time most "experts" are still in their early to
mid learning curves. In theory, a certified industrial hygienist
should be better than most. However, many in this profession are
also early into learning the mold/moisture trade.
June 9, 2003
Indoor
Environmental Quality (2000), Thad Godish PhD
See our Mold
Solution Buyers Guide for more cleaning and prevention methods
to reduce mold.
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Basement
Flooding by
Thad Godish, Ph.D
Question
Our
basement had some flooding -just enough to get the carpet
wet. The cleaning company said it is better to just replace
the carpet than try to clean and dry it. Is that true?
-Todd
, Ohio
Answer
In many
cases it would be better to replace the carpeting rather than
try to clean it and dry it. In many cases where the amount
of wetting is small and one acts quickly enough (within 48
hours), one can clean and save carpet. If the carpet is relatively
new (<10 years old), it is likely to be made of all synthetic
material. Such material cannot serve as a food source for
mold.
If mold
does grow on such carpeting (and it is not unusual), it is
because of the organic matter that has accumulated in it.
If one uses deep extraction cleaning one can save a carpet
even it is already fuzzy. I know of a couple of such cases
in school and other buildings where carpeting was successfully
remediated and thus saved.
When carpet
is cleaned after a flood, many remediators/cleaners apply
a biocide as a final cleaning procedure. These usually work
very well and post-cleaning airborne spore counts are very
low.
On two different occasions occupants reported hoarseness,
chest tightness after the flooding/remediation. These symptoms
are not typical of mold. In one case (not a school) I measured
significant concentrations of acrolein, a potent mucous membrane
irritant. Some common biocides work by producing formaldehyde
as a decomposition product. Some contain 50% glutaraldehyde,
a very potent mucous membrane and pulmonary irritant.
The use
of biocides for post -flooding remediation is problematic.
It virtually eliminates the potential for mold growth and
human exposure. However, some biocides may pose exposure risks
of their own. In most cases it is not easy to tell whether
a particular biocide will pose a human exposure concern or
not.
May 23,
2003
Indoor
Environmental Quality (2000), Thad Godish
See our
Mold
Solution Buyers Guide for more cleaning and prevention
methods to reduce mold.
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Maintenance
Tips for Vapor Steam Cleaners
It is
recommended to drain the boiler on your TidyVap, Ladybug,
Ladybug XL, and Vapor Jet 2400 vapor steam cleaner every two
to four weeks.
You must
be sure the machine is cold. It is recommended to let the
unit sit overnight if you have just used it.
You simply
use the boiler drain removal tool to remove the drain screw
and the let the drain out.
It is
most important to take care when replacing the drain screw
after draining the boiler. If you are not careful you can
cross thread it and in some cases damage the brass threads
which will result in the boiler needing to be replaced.
Start
the threads correctly so the screw turns easily with no resistance
if there is any resistance after ½ to 1 turn it means
you have cross threaded it and should not continue to tighten
it. Back it off and start again. Once you have started it
correctly, handtighten it until it is thumb tight. Then do
a final tightening by giving it a quarter turn with the wrench.
Take caution not to over tighten it.
http://www.allergybuyersclub.com/compare-vps.html
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Air Conditioners, Dehumidifiers, Mold Control - Allergy Consumer Review - Issue #52
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