Can
S.A.R.S. Be Spread Through Indoor Air?
 (from
the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention)
April
15, 2003 -- Atlanta.
For the
first time last week, the Centers for Disease Control and
Prevention (C.D.C.) has acknowledged the possibility that
S.A.R.S. may be able to spread through the air or from touching
objects that have become contaminated. Health officials point
out, however, that there are no confirmed cases at this time
of S.A.R.S. being transmitted in these ways.
This concern
was prompted by a number of people who have become sick in
a Hong Kong apartment block. According to David L. Heymann,
M.D., executive director of the World Health Organization's
(W.H.O.) communicable disease program, more than 260 S.A.R.S.
cases have been linked to the Amoy Gardens estate of high-rise
apartment buildings.
"The
vast majority of Amoy Gardens cases have been traced to vertically
linked apartments in a single building, Block E. This pattern
of transmission indicates that the disease has moved out of
the health care setting and is now occurring within the community
as secondary cases," he said during his April 11, 2003
briefing.
He also
noted that epidemiologists investigating the Amoy Gardens
outbreak are considering that some form of environmental contamination,
perhaps linked to a sewage or ventilation system, is the source
of the large number of cases. Although transmission through
the fecal-oral route is being considered as one possibility,
there is no evidence at this time of airborne transmission.
Also the virus that is suspected of causing S.A.R.S. has not
been detected in animals, including cockroaches and rodents.
Residents of this apartment block haven been quarantined in
their homes to help prevent further spread of the disease.
The C.D.C.
also has expressed concerned about reports of suspected S.A.R.S.
cases that may be related to community transmission in Florida.
In her April 10, 2003 telebriefing to the news media, C.D.C.
Director Julie Gerberding, MD, said, "One situation,
in particular, involved a person who traveled to Asia and
developed an illness consistent with S.A.R.S.. In the very
early phases of that illness, the individual did go to work,
and during the active monitoring of [the individual's] contacts,
that the Florida health department is conducting, an individual
in the workplace who has respiratory illness was identified.
So that worker is now on the list of suspected S.A.R.S. patients
but it's far too early to indicate whether any of these individuals
actually has S.A.R.S. or [that S.A.R.S. has] spread beyond
that point." There also is a child in Florida with a
suspected case of S.A.R.S. who attended school.
With respect
to possible transmission of S.A.R.S. at airports, Dr. Gerberding
commented, "If you are a passenger traveling from an
unaffected part of the world, but you go through an airport
in a country like, say, Hong Kong, where disease is being
transmitted, it's possible that you would come in contact
with someone who is infectious. And so we are considering
that as a potential exposure as we learn more about how this
disease is being spread."
As a precaution,
the C.D.C. has posted guidance on its website to ensure that
there are appropriate steps in place to manage possible exposures
should an individual with S.A.R.S. inadvertently go to the
school
or to work.
Severe
Acute Respiratory Syndrome (S.A.R.S.) is an emerging disease
that most likely spreads from close personal contact during
which someone with the illness coughs droplets into the air
and someone else breathes them in. This usually occurs with
family members or health care providers who are treating people
with S.A.R.S..
The illness
is described as an atypical pneumonia that is likely caused
by a previously unrecognized coronavirus. It usually begins
with a fever greater than 100.4° F, which is sometimes
associated with chills or other symptoms, including headache,
general feeling of discomfort and body aches. Some people
also experience mild respiratory symptoms at the outset. After
two to seven days, S.A.R.S. patients may develop a dry, nonproductive
cough that might be accompanied by or progress to the point
where insufficient oxygen is getting to the blood. In 10%
to 20% of cases, patients will require mechanical ventilation.
The incubation period for S.A.R.S. is typically two to seven
days; however, isolated reports have suggested an incubation
period as long as 10 days.
Information
to date suggests that people are most likely to be infectious
when they have symptoms, such as fever or cough. However,
it is not known how long before or after their symptoms begin
that patients with S.A.R.S. might be able to transmit the
disease to others.
Top
|
New
Product Roundup - News Bytes
 For
a new choice in summer comforters take a look at our Euphoria
Organic wool comforters from $279.95.
Have an
aching back from your too hard mattress? Euphoria
latex mattress toppers starting at $399.95 could be a
cost effective and wonderfully comfortable solution. Vista
wool mattress pads from $299.95 are the ultimate in pampering
for added softness to your current mattress. Our 400tc
Diva Dots Sheets ($99.95 and up) are already a staff favorite
for home use and a great gift always appreciated by the recipient.
We have
a whole new line of portable
air conditioners picked as the best of the best, from
a long trail of machines we tested over the last few months
and an addition to whole
house air purifiers for those with smaller houses looking
for a cost effective solution. See our new humidity
controller priced at $159.95 to work with your dehumidifier,
when precise humidity control is important.
Safe
room kits are becoming more popular with the number of
infectious diseases and pollutants that we are facing today.
You cannot
use a consumer vacuum cleaner to dispose of hazardous waste
or other substances like lead or asbestos - a commercial vacuum
cleaner is needed, and one specially designed for such problems.
We have added two such machines, a commercial vacuum Mini
Tox ($978.95) and a Hepa commercial dry vacuum ($1384.95).
We are
great fans of the Sebo line of vacuum cleaners and use the
X1
upright in our offices. We have now added two of their
canister line of vacuum cleaners, the powerhead
and turbo
head versions for home use and are very enthusiastic about
them. See our test review below.
Top
|
Dehumidifier
Line Up For Summer 2003
We were hard at
work during last winter testing out different low cost dehumidifiers.
We burned out more than I care to mention, broke others and got fairly
disgusted with the whole process. At one point, we were ready to declare
defeat and tell you all that if you wanted an effective well-designed
machine for under $400, you would search in vain. However our persistence
paid off and we have revamped our line up to reflect our research.
For those of you who want quick answers, we have summarized it in
the Dehumidifier
Comparison Chart.
A review of
our best pick this season, the low end cost Comfort-Aire
dehumidifier, follows next.
Top
|
Comfort-Aire
Low Temp Dehumidifiers
 By
Bob Cobe. AllergyBuyersClub.com Staff
Rating:
 ½
- Good Plus
The low
temperature Comfort-Aire dehumidifiers are among the best-designed
home dehumidifiers we have tested. In addition to their being
able to operate at temperatures down to 42 degrees, the digitally
adjustable humidistat allows you to set the humidity level
to which you want to dry. Their intuitive controls are clearly
readable on the top of the units and digital readouts give
you the room humidity and temperature plus the humidity level
to which you have set the adjustable humidistat.
The large
front loading bucket holds 20 pints, has a convenient center
of the bucket carrying handle, slides in and out easily, and
uses a lever system to shut the machine off when the bucket
is filled rather than the "float on a wire" system
that tends to jam occasionally in some other units. When the
bucket has filled, the unit will shut off automatically and
will let you know by a light on the top.
The moist
air is drawn into the front of the unit and the dry air exhausted
vertically through the top to allow you to place it right
up against a wall. Should the dehumidifier need to be moved,
there are handles on both sides for carrying and 4 wheels
on the bottom for rolling. The washable air filter is easily
accessible for cleaning.
While
the 2-speed fan produces a higher volume of air than most
and will dry rooms more quickly, it is unfortunately noisier
than we would like. The only other drawback seems to be that
it does not automatically reset itself should there be a power
failure and you must push the start button and reset your
desired humidity level.
For those
of you who want to constantly drain the water by use of gravity
or a pump, this machine is ideal because the drain connection
does not attach to a hole in the bottom of the bucket, but
has a drain connection above the bucket. Included is a 1-foot
solid plastic tube that you push onto this drain connection,
then run the tube out the back corner of the cabinet, and
attach a hose to the threaded end of the tube. Therefore,
there is never any water left in the bucket.
All in
all, while not perfect, this dehumidifier is the best I have
seen in this price range of $319.00 upwards.
http://www.allergybuyersclubshopping.com/comfortaire-lt-45-65-dehumidifiers.html
For those
who are just looking for the best dehumidifier and where price
is not so critical, the Santa
Fe line of dehumidifiers for the home still win hands
down (priced at $1,429.95 and up).
Top
|
Sebo
Vacuum Canister Model C3 Review
 By
Mercia Tapping, President, AllergyBuyersClub.com
Rating:
- Excellent
Seldom
does a product get a rave review from me. But this one made
me stop in my tracks .It is near perfect in my book. I had
been wanting a Miele
Silver Moon hepa vacuum cleaner for the longest of times
but had choked a bit at the price. The Silver Moon is still
a beautiful machine but for those of you who like me want
the quality and save a few pennies at the same time, the new
Sebo C3 powerhead canister vacuum cleaner priced at $899
may be the answer.
I hate
vacuum cleaning. From my perspective, vacuum cleaners are
designed and sold by people who clearly have never had to
vacuum in their lives. Every time I review and test a vacuum
cleaner, I shake my head at the features the engineers could
have incorporated and did not. So with my usual healthy dose
of skepticism, I took the Sebo C3 powerhead canister vacuum
cleaner home to test. I took me about 10 minutes to reach
the conclusion, that someone who was actually intelligent
had engineered this vacuum cleaner. It took another 10 minutes
to decide that no way this vacuum was going back to the office.
This one was a keeper!
1. First
thing I noticed was I could immediately assemble this vacuum
cleaner without looking at the manual. Not that in theory
I have objections to manuals, but it was a pleasure for this
mechanically challenged human to figure it out without calling
for help.
2. Next
I noticed that the power head started immediately as soon
as I pressed the hinged lever on the floor to operate the
vacuum, and if I put the machine in the upright position it
automatically turned itself off. Cool, especially when my
husband's cell phone keeps ringing.
3. The
powerhead adjusted itself magically as I moved from thick
Chinese rug to a thin scatter rug. It was a bit noisier than
I was used to, but it was sucking up tons of dirt effortlessly
and seemed to be almost self- propelled.
4. Next,
I tried out the upholstery attachment on a chair covered with
cat hair. It was truly just a snap to change from the powerhead
to the hand tool, off and on was smooth and fast. If the hand
tools on a vacuum are not easy and fast to change, I am never
motivated to use them- they just stay neatly stacked and unused
inside the canister. Now, the fully electrified adjustable
wand came into its own .No peering into little sockets on
the vacuum cleaner to reconnect it after using the tools.
As for the cat hair, the upholstery tool did a surprisingly
good job but it took too long for Ms. Impatience here, so
I put the optional small turbo head on my shopping list.
5. I have
to confess that as a confirmed klutz, I had some trouble putting
the upholstery brush back inside the canister. Easy if you
are good at jigsaw puzzles, but my superior IQ was stumped
for at least 5 minutes. I have made a mental note to take
a good look next time I take out a hand tool as to where to
put it back.
6. Now
someone at Sebo figured out that if you supply a floor brush
which cannot fit inside the canister, it might make sense
to put a little socket for it to hook on the back to the machine
when you are vacuuming, otherwise the floor brush gets left
behind in the closet - Brownie points for that. At this time
of writing, I think I have at least 3 generations of floor
brushes at the back of my closet. The Sebo floor brush has
a nifty design kind of teeth with every other one missing.
My kitchen floor was truly a challenge, after my husband had
tramped in god knows what with his sneakers from the ravine,
where he had rescued one of our cats one night last week.
The floor brush did the best job at cleaning up sneaker dirt
I have ever encountered. By this time, I was warming to the
task and humming as I cleaned.
7. I took
a little break at this point and appreciated that the power
head did not tip over but just stayed nicely behaved in the
upright position. Electrical cord retracted smoothly and did
not whipsaw as in other machines, which are designed to frighten
the life out of you.
8. When
I resumed vacuuming I lifted the machine upstairs. Again I
smiled, a nice handle conveniently placed so I did not feel
I was lugging around an elephant. It was the not the lightest
of vacuums, but neither the heaviest.
9. As
I started up again, I noticed the vacuum cleaner seemed to
have an unusually long electrical cord and I did not have
to pick and move the canister very often. Of course, when
I did move the canister, tugging at it to get it round a corner,
I was glad that someone was smart enough to give this vacuum
nice soft bumpers, so I wasn't beating up the paintwork.
10. Somewhere
along the line, I noticed that the handle was small enough
for my little hands and wasn't causing my arthritis to kick
up. I liked that most of the controls were on the handle and
the rest were operated by a swift depression of the foot.
It was a relief not to be bobbing up and down, bending to
get the suction just right. Now I would not be vacuuming the
blinds two feet off the windows by using too much suction.
11. I
decided to try opening the canister again to use the dusting
brush. The dusting brush in my opinion is great for baseboards,
chair rails and pictures and metal and wood blinds. This nifty
attachment is also great for vacuuming the bathroom vanity
lights, recessed spotlights, cobwebs on the ceiling and the
corners in my bathroom. This is when the retractable wand,
which just glided oh so smoothly and clicked into place without
a struggle. By now, I was getting positively joyful and then
I got angry at all those "other" vacuum cleaners.
Millions of us condemned to vacuum cleaner purgatory. I realized
that this vacuuming thing was almost pleasant, and my cleaning
lady was going to LOVE me the following week. Or maybe she
wasn't, as I was going to set new standard of cleanliness.
No excuses, she was going to have a crackerjack tool to use!
12. Down
two floors to the garden level where the three cats hang out.
There are plenty of challenges here. Noticed that the floor
brush at the back did NOT fall off coming down stairs, which
was appreciated. Sucked up all that supposedly low trackable
cat litter, which was tramped out from the laundry room all
over the carpet.
I have
discovered something about cleaning the house with a good
quality cleaning aid. It can be therapeutic and satisfying
if the job at the end is well done. But don't get me wrong,
I still prefer playing golf at weekends to vacuuming.
The complete
review by our product engineers can be found at the links
below. They gushed over the Sebo's intelligent engineering
and you can read what they have to say. All I can say is I
am keeping this one very firmly at home. See the links below
for the Sebo C3 and C2 models.
http://www.allergybuyersclubshopping.com/sebo-c3-vacuum-cleaner.html
Model for mix of carpet and bare floors especially if pets
are around.
http://www.allergybuyersclubshopping.com/sebo-c2-vacuum-cleaner.html
Model for bare floors and scatter rugs.
Top
|
How To Make Your Vacuum Cleaner Last For Many Years
By Bob Cobe,
AllergyBuyersClub.com Staff
Here are a couple
of simple things that you might not know, that you can do at home
to help your vacuum
cleaner last for many years, work at peak efficiency and save
you a trip to the repair shop.
- Change the
vacuum cleaner bag before it is stuffed completely full, in order
to keep the suction strong and not overheat the motor.
- Clean all
rotary brushes frequently to prevent them from jamming and wearing
out the belt.
- Check and
clean, if necessary, the wands and hoses so that there are no
air restrictions that could reduce the suction and possibly overheat
the motor.
- Change or
clean (if it is the washable type) the hepa filter no less frequently
than 50 hours of use. Don't be afraid to due this more frequently;
your lungs will thank you for doing that.
- Try not
to run over the electrical cord and if you do, tape the "wound"
with electrical tape.
- Pick up
large items on the floor rather than vacuuming them into the machine
where they could cause a blockage.
- If you are
hanging up your flexible hose for storage, have it make a rounded
bend rather than a sharp one that might be produced if you hang
it over a single nail or clothes hanger.
- If you are
pulling a canister type by the hose (not recommended but everyone
does), be careful not to catch the canister on furniture or corners.
- Turn the
unit off before removing the plug from the wall so that when you
next plug it in it will not start by itself.
- Use the
vacuum only on dry surfaces; they are not made for wet conditions.
Top
Customer
Care Tip Is Your Vacuum Cleaner Not Working Or Simply Clogged?
The cleaning
lady at our office declared that our office vacuum cleaner was
not working and perhaps it was worn out and we should get a
new one. Since the vacuum cleaner in question was a SEBO
X1 upright and should last about 15 years, we knew that
something else was wrong. All that had happened- and this could
happen to you, is the vacuum cleaner was clogged. When Bob had
a look at it, he found that there was very little suction power
due to a clog in the machine (the clog included a pen cap, 6
paper clips, 4 twist ties, 2 plastic file markers, and dirt
and fuzz). Almost no air could get by this clog, and so the
clog kept getting bigger and more air restrictive.
This is
the order of what you should do to find out whether your vacuum
has a clog in it:
- Start
by checking the brush head of the vacuum to see if anything
is stuck at the very beginning, and, if so, remove the blockage.
- Next
remove the straight wands and look through them for a blockage
before doing the same with the flexible hose. It is easy
to look through the flexible hose by letting one end dangle
and looking downward toward the floor.
- To
remove any blockage gently push a rod similar to a broomsticks
though the tubing.
- Lastly,
check out the machine itself. While all vacuums are different,
most of them have a removable plate on the backside and
you only need to remove the screws and take off this plate
to get at the areas that might be blocked.
Top
|
Summer
Comforters Revisited
By Mercia
Tapping, President, AllergyBuyersClub.com
The notion
that you even need a comforter in summer is a bit contradictory.
I am one of those people that generate enough internal heat,
that most of the night I just need a bed sheet. My husband
on the other hand, would complain loudly if I confined him
to just a sheet. When I am happy with a light silk comforter,
this man is piling up the arctic down.
The article
is for the middle of the roadsters; those people who neither
have an internal furnace nor walk around with cold feet even
in summer.
Basically
I think there are three really nice choices and one runner
up.
1. For
those of you who like hypoallergenic down choose the Harvester
Hypodown Southern weight (starting at $319.00). The 800
fill is the best quality. We use Hypodown
Arctic weight in the winter and I can attest to the quality
of these lovely comforters. They are beautifully made and
the fill does not shift around. Put a good duvet cover on
this comforter and it will last for years. See our previous
review on this line of comforters.
2. For
those with intense feather allergies or have Multiple Chemical
Sensitivities (MCS), I would go for the Euphoria
lightweight wool comforter (twin size starts at $279.95).
I have always avoided wool comforters as they seemed to weigh
a ton and I prefer warmth but without weight. Much to my surprise,
I found the new lightweight Euphoria wool comforters to be
as light as a down comforter. The fact that this comforter
is also organic, is icing on cake. It is well made and wool
is a wonderful fill as it wicks away moisture in summer. A
good wool comforter will last for years. I was so excited
when I came across this comforter, I immediately ordered one
for my guest room bedroom where I go when my husband snores
too loudly. I have to confess that I like it a lot and think
it is worth every penny. I still have not figured out how
they get that wool to be so light in weight. I am told it
has something to do with the quality and purity.
| 3.
For sheer featherweight warmth and luxury try the Imperial
Delight Silk Comforters (from $199.95). Silk comforters
were our discovery last summer. We have learned a lot
about them in the last year especially how to distinguish
between them in terms of quality of silk and workmanship.
The Imperial Delight is our current favorite for the purity
of the mulberry silk strands (very few "knots when
you hold it up to the light) and for the manufacture,
which looks like it will last a good long while if used
with a silk duvet cover. I sleep with a Ming
Dynasty comforter in summer, which I love but it is
a bit more fragile in the way it is fabricated. A silk
comforter is a sensuous luxury and I was reluctant last
Fall to take my silk comforter off my bed and replace
it with down for the winter, as I had reveled in its lightness
all summer. |
|
http://www.allergybuyersclubshopping.com/comforters.html
Top
|
Question: Allergy Proofing A Moldy Old House
 By
David Barnaby,
AllergyBuyersClub.com Staff
From: "Susan
B
Subject: Moldy old house
Question:
Hi there,
I've enjoyed
Allergy Consumer Review for several years now and finally have a
question I'd like to ask.
My mother and
I are considering swapping homes, so that I could live in our family
house and she could move into my two-bedroom condo.
Unfortunately,
the house has been neglected for well over a decade. Because it
is always damp and cold, there is mold growing on some of the walls
and furniture (which I'd like to salvage), and there is a pervasive
stench of mildew. The roof also needs to be repaired or replaced
in several spots where the ceiling is swelled and dripping.
And I won't
even mention the bug problem...
What steps would
you suggest to ensure that the house is allergy-proofed before I
move in? Are there professionals I could call to evaluate the condition
of the home -- and its potential before I get started? And how can
I be certain that it won't start to deteriorate again in years to
come?
Thanks in advance
for your advice.
Susan
======================================================================
Answer:
Hi Susan,
There are many
things you need to consider before moving in.
The first thing
to do is to perform a mold
test in various sections of the house where you think the mold
is present. Once you perform the tests and get the results back,
you can determine how extensive the mold problem is and if you should
have it professionally removed.
Also, if you
have mold that is active in the house, it is highly likely the mold
spores are emitting mycotoxins, which are Volatile Organic Compounds
(V.O.C.s), into the air that can cause various symptoms in people
depending on their allergies. These can range from headaches to
dizziness to tiredness and other neurological symptoms. Setting
up and running portable
air cleaners with a Hepa filter for the mold spores and gas
filters for the V.O.C.s will help in reducing the amount of allergens
and gases in the air directly associated with the mold.
Next and most
important, is that the source of the mold is determined and remedied.
If the source of the mold is the leaks in the roof, they need to
be fixed because the mold problem will reoccur if you clean up the
mold. If you are also having a humidity problem, I would recommend
a dehumidifier
to maintain a relative humidity of 50% or below. This will help
in two important areas. The first is mold creation. One of the things
necessary for mold to develop is water in a liquid state or high
water vapor in the air. If this is controlled, the development of
mold will be extremely difficult. The second way a dehumidifier
would help would be in the control of dust mites, which thrive in
environments of 60% humidity and higher.
It will then
be necessary to eradicate the mold that is present in the home.
The reason is that use of the dehumidifier will prevent the mold
from getting any worse, but it will not kill the mold and remove
it. If in the future you have any moisture develop from a leak or
if your dehumidifier turns off or breaks, this mold could become
active within 24 hours. Therefore, I recommend you remove it.
I will give
you some helpful hints on how to remove mold with some URLs of websites.
Here are the
URLs:
http://www.allergybuyersclub.com/solution-mold.html
http://www.1877moldfree.com/google.html
http://www.epa.gov/iaq/molds/mold_remediation.html
http://www.servicemaster.ca/11B_SMC_mold_household_mold.shtml
The following are ways to remove it:
You want to
isolate the area where you think the mold is. You want to wear gloves
and a mask because the mold spores will be disturbed when you clean
it and they will become airborne. That is also why you want to isolate
the mold so it will not land somewhere else to redevelop. You should
go over the area to be treated with a Hepa
vacuum to remove any of the loosened mold spores.
There are three
natural solution mixed with water you can use to kill the mold.
First, you can use 2 teaspoons of tea tree treasure with 2 cups
of water mixed in a spray bottle and apply it to the area and let
it sit. Do not rinse. The smell will be very strong but it works.
It is expensive but a little goes a long way.
The second is
citrus seed extract, which is odorless, so this may be your preference.
You mix 20 drops of citrus seed extract with 2 cups of water in
a spray bottle and apply it to the problem areas. Do not rinse.
You may see the citrus seed extract listed as grapefruit seed extract.
The third way
is straight vinegar. This is the least expensive method but as you
can imagine the smell is rather strong. Straight vinegar will kill
82% of mold. Pour some white distilled vinegar straight into a spray
bottle and spray it on the moldy surface and let set without rinsing.
The smell should dissipate in a few hours.
There is another
way to kill the mold and it involves no chemicals or additives.
It is the use of a dry
vapor steam cleaner which because the temperature of the steam
is in the area of 180 to 220 degrees, most molds will be killed.
The reason is most molds are heat sensitive and will be killed at
temperatures of 160 degrees and above. However, there are many types
of mold, and some of them are not heat sensitive, so the hot dry
steam will have no effect on them. You simply go over the surface
of the areas where the mold is present, and let the heat of the
steam kill the mold. You can remove it with a towel after the steam
is applied and you can also apply the steam directly through a towel
attached to the brush, so the mold will be killed and absorbed directly
into the towel at the same time.
As far as cleaning
the mold from the furniture, I recommend first going over them with
a Hepa
vacuum so any surface mold spores would be removed. Then, I
would clean the items with a solution of hot water and detergent
or non-ammonia soap. Scrub the entire area where you believe the
mold is present. Rinse the cleaned areas with water and dry thoroughly.
Keep in mind,
mold spores whether they are dead or alive will cause an allergic
reaction if you are allergic to them.
Once the mold
is remediated, continued use of your dehumidifier to maintain a
relative humidity of 50% will eliminate the possibility of mold
redeveloping in the future.
You can also
consider one other way to prevent mold from reoccurring in the future
and this would be the use of the Airfree
Sterilizer which we have on our website. Each unit will sterilize
an area of 250 square feet with an average ceiling height of 8 feet
so it will control an area of 2000 cubic feet. The unit works by
taking in the microorganisms in the air by convection where they
are incinerated at 400 to 600 degrees in a chamber. From there the
air is cooled and then emitted back into the room through the top.
The sterilization process occurs slowly over a 3 to 4 week period
and the result will be no airborne micro organisms which would include
mold, bacteria, viruses, germs, and protein based particulates such
as pet dander and dust mite fecal material. The great thing about
this unit is that once you have removed the airborne mold from the
room, it is very difficult for mold to develop in the area, due
to the fact you have removed one of the three things necessary for
mold to grow. This is the presence of airborne mold spores. Normally,
there will always be an abundance of these because they are in great
supply in the outdoors and some of them will always circulate into
the inside of your house. However, the use of the Airfree Sterilizer
will eliminate them so mold formation will become very difficult.
The use of a
dehumidifier
is also very helpful against the development of mold because you
will be controlling another one of the three things necessary for
mold to develop, which is water in the liquid state or high relative
humidity of water vapor in the air. Once the humidity is above 55
to 60 percent any condensation occurring will allow mold to begin
to form and grow on a surface. Lowering the relative humidity with
a dehumidifier will lower the dew point in the room, making the
occurrence of condensation forming on a surface unlikely. Keep in
mind, the third thing necessary for mold to develop is there needs
to be a proper surface, which will be next to impossible to prevent
unless everything is covered in plastic and inorganic materials.
Any surface such as wallboard, wood, concrete, etc. is a good breeding
surface for mold. So, as you can see it is the other two areas we
need to focus our attention on.
Finally, as
far as the bugs are concerned, you would need to find out what kind
of bugs you have. If it is mainly the dust mites you can control
them on your own. However, if they are ants or termites you would
need to hire an exterminator.
I hope this
information will be helpful.
Sincerely,
Dave Barnaby
http://www.allergybuyersclubshopping.com/dehumidifiers-home-industrial.html
Top
LadyBug
XL Vapor Steam Cleaner Review
By Bob
Cobe, AllergyBuyersClub.com Staff
 Rating:
- Excellent
Steam
cleaning your house or office is a remarkable method of cleaning.
Vapor
steam cleaners can sterilize and deep clean almost any
surface more effectively, faster and without the use of chemicals
than other conventional cleaning methods. Ground-in dirt,
stains, baked on "crud" get lifted off, and your
house will smell "cleaner" than you ever imagined.
It is dangerous to get used to a vapor steam cleaner as suddenly
you set yourself a whole new level of cleanliness!
We would
be the first to say that the Ladybug
XL steam cleaner is not for everyone. It is a little heavier
and more awkward to carry around than some, and any steam
cleaner over $1000 is a bit heavy on the pocket book. However,
if you are getting into serious steam cleaning, and performance
is a priority, then this machine should be definitely on your
"to consider" list. We often get asked the question
as to which to pick the Ladybug
or Ladybug
XL. Here is our assessment of the Ladybug XL machine.
Pluses:
- The
LadyBug XL is quick and easy to refill with no down time
as it is continuous refill and can be refilled on the fly.
- An
exceptional video, instruction manual, and a single cheat
sheet of operating tips is included.
- It
has an excellent grade quality stainless steel boiler with
a 3-year warranty.
- It
is a very safe machine, not only because you are adding
cold water to a cold-water reservoir, but it has a safety
trigger as well. We cannot overemphasize the importance
of this feature. Remember you are dealing with steam temperatures.
- The
tools are of excellent quality and snap on and off easily.
It is the quality of the tools that can make or break the
performance of a steam cleaner. This steam cleaner has superior
standard tools and a good range of optional tools for specialized
tasks. The list of tools available has just been extended.
- Heavy-duty
machine rated for light industrial use which speaks to it
reliability and durability.
- Unit
may be used for prolonged periods of time without overheating
the wiring.We appreciate that safety and durability factor
- Slightly
greater cleaning temperature of steam than the TidyVap or
LadyBug
- Carries
all the tools right on the unit so you do not need to carry
around as separate tool bag
- Will
maintain steam pressure for a longer time than the LadyBug
or TidyVap
Minuses:
- Added
weight and width make it slightly awkward on stairs and
narrow corridors. We recommend this machine to people with
single floor living. The Ladybug because of the lighter
weight and ease of maneuverability is the model we rated
as best in class but the XL comes a close second- this feature
is our only complaint and some people greatly prefer this
model.
- The
frequency of the pump turning on due to water sloshing inside
can be annoying
Summary:
Whether
it is grout cleaning, marble floors, sanitizing of kitchens
and bathrooms, stain removal, the Ladybug XL goes to the top
of the class. It does command a hefty price tag but if you
are serious about chemical free cleaning, this steam cleaner
will not disappoint. In addition, compared to some other manufacturers,
we have every confidence in the manufacturer's after sales
support and service as well as the longevity and stability
of the company.
http://www.allergybuyersclubshopping.com/vapor-steam-cleaners.html
Top
|
Customer
Care Tips - How To Care And Clean Your Permanent Furnace Filter
By Mercia
Tapping, President, AllergyBuyersClub.com
 This
is just a friendly reminder to clean your furnace filter.
It is all too easy since it is a permanent filter, to forget
about it, but permanent does not mean no cleaning required!
We have furnace filters both at our home and office. The home
only seems to need cleaning every 3-4 months, as our house
is located in a nice clean suburb of Boston. My husband takes
the filter outside and runs the garden hose over it until
it runs clean. Given the environment in which we live, the
color of the water is not that noticeably dirty. We let the
furnace filter dry completely before reinstalling it.
Our office,
located in a polluted industrial area of town is another matter.
Every time we clean the multiple furnace filters, which are
located on the roof, we get a sharp reminder that these filters
really do work.
When we
clean the filters at work, we spray a non-toxic spray cleaner
on both sides of the filter. We then rinse each side with
a garden hose, until there is no evidence of dirt notated
mostly by the color of the water. Initially, the water is
black but it eventually becomes clear. We then allow the filters
to dry thoroughly. You can expedite the drying by setting
the filters in the sun or by running a fan on them. Once they
are completely dry we reinstall them. The recommendation in
general, is to clean your furnace filters roughly every 2
to 4 months depending on the pollution level of the area you
live in. In our case, every 2 months is needed. The importance
of cleaning your furnace filters is mainly twofold. The first
is to prevent any loss of airflow in your central air system.
The second, is electrostatic filters rely on their ability
to attract the particulates by their opposite charge which
will diminish as the surface area becomes more and more covered
with particulates. The biggest reduction in efficiency will
be for the smaller particulates, because the larger ones will
have a better chance of being captured by the filter's surface
area because they are large enough to not pass through the
filter.
http://www.allergybuyersclubshopping.com/furnacefilters.html
Top
|
|
Question:
How To Choose A Good Duct Cleaning Service
By David
Barnaby,
AllergyBuyersClub.com Staff
From:
"Ron B"
Question:
We know so little - can you help?
Is duct cleaning really a help in home air quality? Quote
was for $325 for a medium two-story house.
Any information
on a company called (name withheld) out of Georgia. The sale
rep makes claims for a CAP100 inline filtration system. Efficiency
of up to 97% at 6 microns (up to 97% ???). It pictures a 1
inch pre filter with a 5 inch Final filter (BioPleat tm).
Is this just a fancy looking furnace filter that costs a lot
or is it really better than the 3M 3-month 1-inch filter (about
$10.00) or some other such regular filter?
What effect
do these larger 5-6 inch filters have on the blower motor
of the furnace? Any problems there?
rvb -
Bangor
======================================================================
Answer:
Hi Ron,
There
are a few things you need to consider before deciding to have
your ductwork cleaned.
First,
you need to determine what kind of material your ducting system
is made of. If it is not encapsulated there is no point in
cleaning it. The reason is that you will stir up the insulation
because it is not sealed. If you feel the inside of the ductwork
and it feels soft you are feeling the insulation and it is
probably not encapsulated so you should not have them cleaned.
The reason for this is most companies will come in with rotary
brushes to scrape and remove any of the dirt and debris that
is clinging to the ducting. If the ductwork is not encapsulated
the brushes will stir up the insulation and you will be worse
off than before you started. If your ducting is encapsulated
the inside will feel hard.
Next and
most important, you should only consider duct-cleaning companies
that are N.A.D.C.A. certified. This is the National
Air Duct Cleaners Association. To be a member they will
need to pass certain tests and the people doing the work are
specially trained and cannot perform any work with the company
until they have passed the special courses. N.A.D.C.A. companies
will insure they are serious about the work and not in it
for the short run.
Of course,
I always recommend getting references from previous customers
so you can call them and talk to them if you wish. Also, it
is always worth it to call the Better Business Bureau to see
if there are any recent complaints against the company.
Normally,
you only need to clean your ductwork every 5 years or so.
If they are dirty cleaning the ductwork will be very helpful.
Concerning
the furnace filter they are describing, determine if it is
a cleanable filter or you need to replace it. We recommend
the types that are electrostatic that you can periodically
clean every 2 to 4 months and you never have to replace them.
They are usually one inch thick. The efficiency ratings they
give you are very good if they really do perform to those
levels. You normally should look for a filter that can remove
between 75 to 85 percent of the particulates down to as small
as 1 to 1.5 micron. Keep in mind, the reason you cannot remove
particles any smaller is because in most cases you would need
a Hepa filter to attain these efficiencies and this would
result in too much of a strain on the air system. The reason
is a Hepa filter is very thick and offers a great deal of
resistance to the air movement. You mention they are describing
a pre-filter and a final filter. Be careful they are not going
to shut off the airflow too much by having the two filters.
A good furnace filter can remove up to 50% of all of the dust
and particles circulating through your ducting. I would ask
them what the airflow resistance was when the filter is clean
and when it is dirty. The clean airflow resistance should
be between 0.1 to 0.5. If it is close to 1.0 or higher it
will be too much resistance to your furnace.
http://www.allergybuyersclubshopping.com/furnacefilters.html
Please
feel free to contact me to discuss any of the products we
offer from our website.
Sincerely,
Dave Barnaby
AllergyBuyersClub.com Staff
Top
|
SARS, Dehumidifiers for Summer Humidity, Summer Comforters - Allergy Consumer Review - Issue #
|
= poor 
= fair 
= good 
= very good
= excellent 
