Editor: Mercia Tapping, President, Allergy Buyers Club

PLEASE NOTE that references to prices or specials within this archive reflect prices
and market conditions at the time of newsletter publication.
Prices may have changed since publication.

In This Issue

• What is Hypodown?
• How to choose a comforter
• How to test whether your pillow needs replacing
• Is Women's Lib the cause of the rise of allergens?
• The Seven Sins of Air Filter Manufacturers
• Ask Annie
  - How to clean your oven
     for Turkey Day
  - The Right Way to Use Vinegar
     for Cleaning the Windows
  - Sink and Tub Scrub
  - What is Washing Soda?
  - Root Growth Aid for Cuttings
  - Emollient Honey Bath
  
  

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• Special member offer on Hypodown comforters - offered only by email to our members at the time.

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WHAT IS HYPODOWN?

Hypodown is a natural hypoallergenic combination of white goose down and Syriaca. Asclepias Syriaca, or Syriaca, is also known as milkweed. Syriaca grows abundantly in the United States and is now cultivated on Nebraska farms. The fall harvest reaps soft and silky clusters from the plants pod. The Hypodown naturally traps and suppresses the dust and dander that people with allergies react to in traditional down products. This combination makes Hypodown the only natural, hypoallergenic down product in the bedding industry. Hypodown is warmer, more breathable, and more durable than down alone.

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HOW TO CHOOSE A COMFORTER

We have been finding out recently that not all comforters are created equal. Intuitively, I have always known that but the criteria for distinguishing between them were more complicated than I realized. Here are the different variables and I have tried to keep it simple for you.

1. Fill Power
   In layman's terms this means how fluffy/puffy is the fill. Fluffy down occupies more space. A higher number on the 600-800 scale means it is fluffier. Higher fill power means it also lasts longer.
2. Thread Count/Barrier Weave fabric
   The thread count is the number of threads that are contained in one square inch of fabric. Higher thread counts in a fabric mean it is lighter and softer. The tightness of the weave also prevents leakage of the fill to the outside air. The lightness also helps the fill to " loft"- puff up in layman's terms. Downproofness is measure in millimeters .Lower numbers mean better down proofing. The industry standard in '10'.An air porosity test[how much air can pass through a fabric] is a measure of "downproofness". Higher thread counts are obviously better. In other words- no little feathers poking through the fabric.
3. Cleanliness
   There are acceptable government standards for the cleanliness of feathers and down. This cleanliness is a primary variable in determining the hypoallergenic nature of some down comforters. Some comforter fills are washed as many as fifteen times to get rid of dust, dirt and organic matter. There are two "cleanliness" tests in the industry. a. A Oxygen test determines the amount of organic matter left in the material being tested. The industry acceptable standard is 10.Better products have lower numbers than that. b. Turbidity tests. Turbidity is a measure of suspended solids, dust, dirt etc suspended in the material. The scale goes from about 60[unwashed feathers ]to 550 best.
4. Type of Down
   These are in order of quality. Please note that in some comforters labeled" pure down" or 100% down are not pure , as some feathers remain in the fill. As long as the comforter is 75% down it can be labeled 100% in many state's [ugh! We need a new label law here]
   • Duck feather
   • Duck feather and Down
   • Goose feather and Down
   • Goose down
   • Hungarian DownSiberian Down
5. Weight
   A comforter can be made warmer in two ways. Fill power and weight. Clearly the aim is to get the maximum warmth at the lightest weight. To get this you would choose a higher fill power number. Feathers are a great deal less warm than high grade down. Once you have selected the fillpower then add weight for extra warmth
6. Construction
   a. Sewing Quality. Better sewing means more durability, less tendency for sewing to break. Comforters are generally sewn through or baffled. The baffling is an internal fabric wall which allows the fill to "loft" more. It also adds strength to the comforter. Comforters which are sewn through are generally better for lighter weight comforters only. http://www.allergybuyersclubshopping.com/comforters.html

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HOW TO TEST WHETHER YOUR PILLOW NEEDS REPLACING

I found some information the other day about how to test whether your pillow needs replacing. Here is the essence of the advice

• For all natural pillows:
  Fold the pillow in half [a king size pillow in thirds] then release it. A "good pillow" will release and bounce back into shape.
• For all synthetic pillows:
  Follow directions as above but put a 10 ounce weight on top. A clean tennis shoe is about the right weight. Then take the shoe off the pillow. If the pillow is OK it will release.

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IS WOMENS LIB THE CAUSE OF THE INCREASE IN ALLERGIES?
By Tom Ogren

Editor's Note: When Tom sent me this it really made me chuckle in a black humored kind of way!

Now, this is one of my favorites! My brother-in-law, a college professor, was seeing a famous allergist, who I'll not name. He tried to tell the allergist all about my book, Allergy-Free Gardening. The allergist dismissed it all as unimportant and then told him, "You want to know why there's so much allergy nowadays?" My brother-in-law said that, yes, he certainly did want to know. "Women's Lib," said the learned doctor. "Women used to stay home where they belonged and they took care of the kids and kept their houses neat and clean.

Now, well, now they all have to have jobs, just like the men, and who's taking care of the house? Nobody! That's why there's so much allergy now. Their houses are filthy and covered with dust."

My brother-in-law wasn't quite sure what to make of that. I have an answer for that doctor. An increase in house dust isn't driving the allergy rates sky-high. Not even close. What's gone up is the amount of pollen in our cities. In some areas, Tucson, Arizona, for example, there is actually ten times more pollen in the air there now than there was just thirty years ago! And I can document that.

It isn't just Arizona either. In city after city, north and south, all around the civilized world, everywhere that modern, low-litter, litter-free, seedless, male landscaping has become popular, pollen rates are up. Even though in many cities there is now less total green matter than in the past, there is still more pollen than ever. And more allergy, too.

Not long ago I was out in my own neighborhood, camera in hand, looking for some choice high-allergy landscapes to photograph. I didn't have to go far. I was standing, carefully, on the public sidewalk, taking a close-up shot of some Groundsel bush ( Baccharis sp.) used as a ground cover in this front yard. An older gentleman came out of the house, looked at me and asked, "Now, what in the world could be worth photographing in my yard?" "I'm an allergy researcher, Sir," I said. "Yeah?" he asked. "Some problem here?" "This ground cover is all male," I said. "All-male, and all of it rather closely related to ragweed." "Humm," he said. "And that big row of junipers you've got there," I said, pointing to the side of his yard, "looks like every one of them is a male, too. That ash tree of yours, notice how it doesn't have any seeds?" "Yeah?" "It's a male tree. Actually, your entire yard, everything in it except that climbing rose bush on the front porch, all of it could have been designed to cause allergies. Anybody here have allergies?" "Sure," he said, "my wife. She's got terrible allergies."

I looked at the yard full of male ground cover, all of it in full bloom. "Well," I said, "I'd be willing to bet she's having allergies right now." "Yep," he said, "she certainly is."

Now, I didn't even bother to ask him if his wife kept their house spotless and dust-free. It was a nice house, in an expensive neighborhood, and somehow I seriously doubted, that his wife's allergies were being caused by Women's Lib.

More about Tom

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THE SEVEN SINS OF AIR FILTER MANUFACTURERS
by Frank Hames, President - IQAir, North America

Editors note: I thought this article highly educational. It was printed in Indoor Air Connections recently.

With estimated sales of over 4 million units in 1999 in the United States, room air purifiers have become standard appliances in many households and offices. Manufacturers of room air purifiers must strive - harder than anyone else in the air purification industry - to provide low cost products to their consumers. This has resulted in air cleaners with HEPA technology selling for as little as $80.00. While making air cleaning technology affordable is a commendable goal; misleading marketing statements and questionable air cleaning performance have many users disappointed.

This article attempts to draw attention to a number of deceptive marketing practices, that air purifier manufacturers use, which are detrimental to the credibility of the air cleaning industry as a whole.

Since the science of air cleaning is a complex one, finding one's way through the maze of unsubstantiated claims and misinformation is a difficult task even for the most alert and critical consumer. Seven common industry practices in particular continue to confuse consumers and air cleaning professionals.

1. Theoretical HEPA Efficiency vs. Actual System Efficiency

Due to the high efficiency, reliability and proven track-record, HEPA technology has become the industry standard for particulate filtration in critical environments, such as semi-conductor cleanrooms and hospital operating rooms. Recognizing the great marketing potential of the term "HEPA", many manufacturers are using it to project a high- performance image onto their room air purifiers. What most HEPA-based air purifiers manufacturers conveniently omit to tell the consumer, is that their air purifiers provide nowhere near the performance level of professional HEPA filter systems used in hospitals and cleanrooms.

Often consumers are misled about an air purifier's efficiency in removing pollutants. Statements like "effectively removes 99% of all airborne allergens" or "efficiently scrubs the room free of air pollutants", lead consumers to believe that these air purifiers remove virtually all of the impurities from the air in a normal indoor environment.

Claims about HEPA-based air purifiers often state 99.97% filtration efficiency. In most cases, this is also not true. The actual efficiency, for particles of 0.3 microns or larger, of many HEPA-based air purifiers sold today is below 80%. The "99.97%" refers to, in most cases, the theoretical efficiency rating of the filter paper that is used in the air cleaning device at 0.3 microns or larger.

The performance gap between HEPA-based room air purifiers and professional HEPA filter systems is mainly due to cutting corners in mass-production and profit maximization. There are a number of reasons why most HEPA-based room air purifiers do not achieve actual HEPA performance:

1. HEPA-rated filter media is not used. 2. The HEPA filter media gets damaged during the pleating process (HEPA media breaks easily). 3. There is leakage between the pleated HEPA filter pack and the filter frame. 4. There is leakage between the HEPA filter frame and the air purifier housing.

Only very few manufacturers state the actual overall efficiency of their device, and even fewer guarantee and certify their air purifiers.

2. Overstating Actual Air Delivery Rates Even the most efficient room air purifier in the world would not impact a room's air quality level, if it were not able to pass enough air through its filters. The amount of air that an air purifier is able to process (air flow rate) is usually expressed in cubic feet per minute (cfm). Consumers are often misled by exaggerated or false claims by manufacturers regarding air flow rates.

One common trade practice is to state the free-flow air handling capacity of the fan motor (i.e. without filters installed), rather than the actual air flow rate (i.e. with all filters installed).

Many manufacturers don't even make this vital air purifier statistic available to consumers. Instead, many state a suitable room size, without mentioning how many air changes per hour the air purifier would manage to produce in that size room.

Only very few manufacturers state the actual airflow rate of their device (with all filters installed), and even fewer guarantee and certify their air purifier's air flow rate.

3. ULPA is NOT Better than HEPA In an effort to differentiate air purifiers from the mass of HEPA air purifiers on the market, some manufacturers have introduced air purifiers, which supposedly use ULPA technology. ULPA stands for Ultra Low Penetration Air and is used in modern cleanrooms. The difference between HEPA and ULPA is the efficiency rating of the filter media. Typical HEPA filter media has an efficiency of 99.97% at 0.3 microns, whereas ULPA media has an efficiency rating in excess of 99.999% at 0.12 microns.

Stressing the higher efficiency at smaller particle size, manufacturers of ULPA-based air purifiers claim that these devices are superior to HEPA-based air purifiers. Unfortunately, this is a perfect example where the search for a better sales pitch has resulted in an inferior product, since the reverse tends to be the case. All things being equal, an air purifier that uses ULPA filter media will be less effective in reducing the particle concentration in a typical room, than the same air purifier equipped with HEPA filter media. And as with many HEPA-based air purifiers, many ULPA-based air purifiers come nowhere close to actually delivering 99.999% particle-free air.

While ULPA filter media has the potential to remove more particles than HEPA filter media, that advantage is lost in room air purifiers, due to the reduction of air flow caused by the denser ULPA filter media. ULPA filter media typically allow 20-50% less air to pass than HEPA filter media, resulting in fewer air changes per hour in a given room.

4. Ineffective Gas Phase Filtration In many cases room air purifiers are purchased to deal with gaseous contaminants and odors. So it comes as no surprise that most manufacturers claim to use some technology to reduce gases and odors.

The most common technology adopted by air purifier manufacturers for the removal of gaseous pollutants is activated carbon. While activated carbon in its granular form is unquestionably effective for the removal of many gaseous contaminants, most room air purifiers on the market today use carbon fiber pads, which are only impregnated with activated carbon dust. These filter pads contain only a few ounces of actual activated carbon and as a result, are essentially ineffective for the removal of gases and odors.

Some manufacturers claim that their activated carbon filter eliminates all gaseous pollutants and odors, a feat that is scientifically impossible. Specific gaseous contaminants need specific gas phase filtration technology. Activated carbon does not efficiently adsorb low molecular weight gases. For this reason, special sorbents are needed to effectively deal with pollutants, such as formaldehyde, hydrogen sulfide and ammonia.

Many room air purifiers that use granular activated carbon also use zeolite. Zeolite is a natural mineral, whose pore structure is supposed to be better suited for the removal for gaseous compounds like formaldehyde and ammonia. In fact, there is no reliable scientific evidence to show that zeolite is able to remove any gaseous compound better than specialty impregnated carbons or impregnated alumina. So why is Zeolite used? Zeolite is an inexpensive "filler" that is less expensive than activated carbon. Secondly, the concept of using two different substances to control gases and odors sounds quite promising to the unsuspecting customer.

5. Sacrificing Long-Term Performance While most tests and evaluations of air purifiers assess only air purifier performance during its first few hours of usage, the real test for air cleaning effectiveness is long term performance. Unfortunately, most manufacturers cut costs on features that would enhance long-term performance.

One standard industry practice is the use of ineffective pre- filtration. In HEPA based air purifiers, it causes the HEPA filter to become clogged at a rapid rate. This in turn reduces the air flow rate, thus resulting in fewer air changes per hour in a given room. This is a particularly serious issue, since some manufacturers inform their consumers that their HEPA filters will only need replacing every 3 to 5 years.

Insufficient pre-filtration, also, causes air purifiers with substantial granular activated carbon filters to quickly lose their gas phase adsorption potential. Dust particles - that should be trapped by pre-filtration - clog the miniscule pores of the activated carbon, and destroy its holding capacity to adsorb gases.

Another reason for poor long term performance of air purifiers is that some air cleaning technologies suffer drastic reductions in air cleaning efficiency without regular maintenance or frequent filter change.

Air purifiers with electrostatic precipitator technology experience drastic efficiency reductions as the collector plates become covered with particles. Air purifiers that use electrostatically charged fibers (electrete) also rapidly lose filter efficiency with particulate loading, especially in the presence of tobacco smoke.

6. Frequent and Expensive Filter Replacement While the initial purchase cost for many room air purifiers is relatively low, the cost of replacement filters can be substantial. Here are some reasons why many air cleaners require frequent and expensive filter replacement:

· Lack of effective pre-filters that protect activated carbon and HEPA filters from premature clogging. · Use of small filter cartridges with low holding capacity for pollutants. · Filter replacement instructions that base filter replacement intervals on time passed (e.g. every 6 months) rather than actual usage and degree of air pollution. · Combining several different filter stages in one filter cartridge, thus forcing the user to replace all filters at once, even if only one filter stage is used up.

7. Trying to be All Things to All People While many air purifier manufacturers offer several models, these models often vary only in size, rather than air cleaning technology. And since manufacturers like to have their product appeal to as many potential customers as possible, they sell one and the same unit as the ideal solution for pet allergens, pollen, mold spores, microorganisms, tobacco smoke, odors, traffic fumes and chemicals, etc. In fact, some manufacturers claim that by virtue of using a multitude of filter stages their air purifier is more effective. Unfortunately, the effectiveness of the air purifier suffers, because more filter stages mean higher air resistance and lower air delivery. Air purifiers that only contain filter stages matched to the user's requirements, offer superior filtration efficiency and air flow.,

Conclusion Industry organizations, like AHAM, have set out to establish some reference point for air purifier performance, they have not succeeded to make comparison shopping for air purifiers a simple task. AHAM's testing protocols do not evaluate actual particle retention, gas phase filtration or long-term performance of air purifiers.

So what are the lessons when evaluating air purifiers? Don't believe every claim made by manufacturers. Realize that a $80 air purifier will have serious limitations. Ask manufacturers to substantiate their claims with independent evidence. Check the underlying technology and investigate whether it has been properly implemented. Use tools that allow objective evaluation of air cleaning performance, such as laser particle counters, to check manufacturer's particulate efficiency claims and evaluate actual particle reduction.

Misleading claims regarding air purifiers and air filters have in the past led to decisions and orders of the Federal Trade Commission against manufacturers, and are likely to do so in the future unless manufacturers practice better self-restraint and self-regulation. Participating in sound business practices and making scientifically proven claims will restore lost faith in room air purifiers, allowing consumers to make informed purchase decisions - based not only on price but, also, on actual performance.
http://www.allergybuyersclubshopping.com/iqair.html http://www.allergybuyersclubshopping.com/iqairgcseries.html

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Ask Annie November 15th, 2000

- How to clean your oven for Turkey Day
- The Right Way to Use Vinegar for Cleaning the Windows
- Sink and Tub Scrub
- What is Washing Soda?
- Root Growth Aid for Cuttings
- Emollient Honey Bath

Cleaning the Oven for the Thanksgiving Turkey
Q: How can I clean the oven for Thanksgiving without using conventional oven cleaner? I never seem to be able to rinse the oven cleaner out of the oven enough, and the taste of it gets into the turkey! -Nancy P, ME

A: Mmmm. Yum. Roast Turkey a la Oven Cleaner. I remember that taste from a past time, and I agree that it does seem almost impossible to rinse the cleanser out enough so that it doesn't flavor whatever one is cooking.

Most people can hardly believe that all I use for cleaning the oven is baking soda and water, and that the project requires no scrubbing. I suppose we have all been so brainwashed by household products companies that we mistakenly believe we require powerful chemicals for cleaning in particular. But most people don't know that simple household minerals such as baking soda can clean like magic. The key is using enough of the mineral.

To clean my oven, I sprinkle baking soda all over the bottom until it is covered completely with about 1/4 of an inch of baking soda. Then, using a clean spray bottle, I spray the baking soda with water until the baking soda is thoroughly damp but not flooded. After that, this lazy cleaner goes off and does other things. When I think of it, I dampen the baking soda again if it is drying out. Before I go to bed, I do that again. When I wake up in the morning, the baking soda can effortlessly be scooped out of the oven with a sponge, bringing all the grime with it. That's it! The only downside is only that the baking soda takes rinsing to get out the white residue, but it sure beats Turkey a La Oven cleaner because there are no fumes!

The Right Way to Use Vinegar for Cleaning the Windows
Q: I can't seem to clean the windows with vinegar without streaks. Any suggestions? -Pat B., NY

A: Oddly enough, it was the task of cleaning the windows that turned a huge number of well-intentioned, environmentally friendly consumers away from nontoxic cleaning using simple ingredients found in most kitchen cupboards. Around Earth Day 1990, every newspaper in the country (or so it seemed), offered tips for cleaning in ways that didn't harm the planet, and the recommendation for windows was almost always to clean them with nothing but vinegar and water. People by the thousands tried this, and many swore off cleaning with homemade products for good because the formula left streaks on their windows. (I wish I had $1 for every time someone has said to me, "Well, I tried nontoxic cleaning and it didn't work. I used vinegar for the windows... ." )

The problem was that the commercial window cleaner used before the switch to vinegar left a very fine wax residue, the vinegar alone wasn't enough to remove it, and the result was streaky windows. If instead, everyone had added a dab of liquid dish soap to the vinegar and water, the wax would easily have been removed and the windows would have been cleaned perfectly! My favorite recipe is to combine 2 cups of water, 1/4 cup of white distilled vinegar, and up to 1/2 teaspoon of liquid soap or detergent in a spray bottle. That's all there is to it. (Make sure to label the bottle and keep it out of the reach of children.)

Sink and Tub Scrub
Q: I remember seeing somewhere a simple way to clean stainless steel sinks, counters, and bathtubs. Can you help me with this? Thanks. - Sam L., NM

A: You've just asked me for my favorite recipe for a homemade soft scrubber. Place about 1/4 cup of baking soda in a bowl, and stir in enough liquid detergent (a brand without dyes and synthetic fragrance - check out the health food store) to make a texture like frosting. Scoop on a sponge and scrub the sink or countertop.

What is Washing Soda?
Q: I notice that you ask for washing soda in a lot of your cleaning recipes. What is it and where can I find it? -Kathy G., CO

A: It wasn't until I discovered washing soda as a heavy-duty cleanser that I felt I could clean everything in the house using less toxic ingredients. I stumbled upon it because I needed to peel old wax off a floor. Washing soda worked for this, as it did for cleaning up engine oil, and other tough materials that people generally use solvents for. Washing soda--sodium carbonate-is in the same family as baking soda, it has just been processed differently. It is much more caustic/alkaline, with a pH of 11, and while it doesn't give off harmful fumes, you do need to wear gloves. It is found in the laundry section of most supermarkets.

Root Growth Aid for Cuttings
Q: I have a lot of relatives who visit for Thanksgiving, and they all love my houseplants and want cuttings. Do you have any suggestions for how to help nourish the cuttings for quick root growth? --Carolyn K., WA

A: Canadian research has demonstrated that honey is more effective for promoting root growth than the commonly used commercial chemical for this purpose. Try this recipe:

1/4 cup honey
3/4 cup boiling water
Combine boiling water and honey in a mason jar to blend the honey into the water. Cool. Place the cuttings in this solution for one to two days.

Emollient Honey Bath
Q: My skin is really dry, especially in the winter, and while I love to take baths, I find they are very drying. What do you suggest I add to the tub? -Gloria, VT

A: One of the first things to do is to find the right vegetable or nut oil that works for your skin. Try out three or four; you will instantly feel which ones are best for you. For my forty-something skin I found apricot kernel oil to be the most soothing and emollient. Great oils for dry skin include apricot kernel oil, avocado oil (this oil is very lush and rich, especially good for old, dry skin, but a little goes a long way), almond, and jojoba (this is actually a liquid wax).

Basic Emollient Bath Recipe

All of the ingredients asked for in this recipe are found in most health food stores.

1 to 2 ounces apricot kernel, avocado, or flax seed oil
1 ounce pure vegetable glycerin
2 ounces aloe Vera gel
A few drops pure essential oil of choice.

Add the ingredients to the tub while it is filling. Makes about 1/4 cup, enough for 1 bath.

Basic Honey Bath Recipe

Herbalists have touted honey for centuries because it helps skin retain moisture and is thereby rejuvenating and softening.

2 tablespoons honey
1 cup very hot water
A few drops pure essential oil, if desired

Dissolve the honey in the water. Add essential oil, if using.
Pour the mixture into the bath water.
Makes 1 cup, enough for one bath.

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Happy Thanksgiving!

Regards,

Mercia Tapping, President
Allergy Consumer Review: Thanksgiving 2000

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